BOOKS > GUIDEBOOKS > TRE CIME CLASSIC AND MODERN ROUTES
TRE CIME CLASSIC AND MODERN ROUTES
Erik Svab, Giovanni Renzi
The Tre Cime di Lavaredo are amongst the icons of the Dolomites. The imposing structure of this triad, their overhanging and shadowy faces, their slender spires, have aroused in the past and still today, not only great interest but also complete respect.
They are vertical and often overhanging faces, which require experience on rock which is not always good, as well as practical and psychological preparation.
The Tre Cime have been the destination in alpinism, from the early pioneers, of illustrious names in world alpinism, many of which have left their mark by opening new itineraries, making first repetitions, winter and solo ascents and link ups.
This guide compiles more than 100 routes, as well the classic itineraries it includes all the ascents which have been free climbed, both along the old aid routes as well as the more recent ones. Many of the routes described have been personally repeated by the authors, both excellent climbers and alpinists. It is an undertaking born from the wish to preserve the memory of the more difficult and less known routes, to prevent someone, unaware of them, from overlapping them with a line of bolts.
PREFACE BY CHRISTOPH HAINZ
It is obvious that the Tre Cime di Lavaredo deserve a guide book of their own since they are the Stars of the Dolomites. Besides, so many routes have been opened on these monumental blocks that it was quite easy to fill a whole book. Nowhere else can you find such a number of exceptional routes with so many different levels of difficulty.
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Exactly 140 years ago, on 21 August 1869, the Austrian alpinist Paul Grohmann together with the guides Franz Innerkofler and Peter Salcher, reached the first and highest summit of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo. At that moment, the fortunate trio was as yet unaware of what would follow their pioneering achievement. In fact an international race began, to conquer this fortress, which even to this day has no equivalent. At the end of the 1990's with Kurt Astner, we both as south Tyrolean climbers we took part in this race with opening hard new routes on the north face of Cima Grande and Cima Ovest, as well as on the south face of Cima Piccola; routes which then went on to become extreme classics. Shortly afterwards Mauro "Bubu" Bole attracted attention thanks to his hard first free ascents of old aid routes, while Alexander Huber take the climbing at levels of breathtaking difficulty with the free ascent of Bellavista, the Alps' first 8c, creating one of the most difficult itineraries ever on rock. In this way these powerful faces came back on the scene and became once more a major attraction for the world's best climbers.
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I therefore wish all the readers of this guide book to live this unique experience with the right dose of awareness and respect for these mountains, but above all to enjoy the ascent of this fantastic trinity.
Christoph Hainz
Pages: 180
Language: published in three volumes: Italian, German and English version
Price: 25,50 euros
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