UP-CLIMBING: Deep Water Soloing

CONTRIBUTIONS > ROCK > DEEP WATER SOLOING

Maiorca - ph.Rachele Sighinolfi - Fabio Lasagni

DEEP WATER SOLOING

Mallorca

February 02, 2012

Even if the season is not really suited to deep water soloing, for those who are tired of seeing reports of frozen waterfalls, we propose this interesting article by Rachele Sighinolfi, a strong climber, in love with psicobloc.

Rachele wrote this special report to explain the irresistible attraction of climbing on the cliffs of Mallorca, and the difference between climbing suspended above the calm and reassuring sea of the bays and above the open sea, where the waves beat incessantly creating a great rushing and the fear of falling into, takes you at the stomach

Mallorca, sublime Deep Water Soloing

Text: Rachele Sighinolfi

Pictures: Rachele Sighinolfi, Fabio Lasagni

When you set out for Mallorca not knowing exactly what Deep Water Soloing involves (as they say, you don’t know until you try something), you imagine your body in the turquoise water, the hot sand between your toes, people in swimsuits and the salt on your suntanned skin. Then you start to ask yourself questions: will the rock be greasy? Will I be climbing with my skin all wrinkly and trashed? My wet shoes, will they grip? Do I have to hold my nose when I fall in? But above all: will I be able to fall in elegantly, or will my body get bruised all over by the impact with the sea?

Maybe you go to Mallorca after having seen the video of Klem Loskot and Tim Emmet with “Psicobloc” written across it, a term (it means “Scary Bouldering”) which tries to hide itself in the furthest corner of your brain as you are packing for the trip. Well, in this video Loskot says: “You don’t realise how high you are, but when you fall it’s a shock how long you’re falling for, you’re in the air for ages and you’re still falling, falling, then … splash. And every time you’re surprised how soft the water is”. A few seconds later, Loskot dynos for two far-away holes in the limestone, 12 m up, and falls... When the video finishes you’re enthralled, amazed and scared of that drop. Ok, you say, but he’s Loskot.

Then you arrive in Mallorca, put on your shoes and even before you leave the canoe or the little dingy, the exposure you feel as if you were already 10 m up. You flick through the guide with barely-hidden preoccupation, looking for the shortest and easiest routes, you resign yourself to traversing and every time you try to climb upwards, your legs start shaking uncontrollably. There’s even a moment when you tell yourself this is the wrong holiday for you, and it’s not that brief... Here the struggle that’s at the heart of climbing makes itself felt: between your fears and your tenacity.

In Mallorca, this struggle is epic: the coastline is splendid, the rock, with its intense colours, and all shades from red to yellow, from grey-blue to black, plunges into the sea. The features make you dream of a physical, robust dance, with enormous holes, crimps, slopers, and pockets from big buckets to two-finger holes…and the sea is scary.

The cliffs rise out of the sea: those in the coves are more reassuring, with their clear blue swimming-pool floor, but the cliffs over the open sea, very high, take your breath away, not just for their beauty. The roar of the sea with the waves crashing, the white foam on the boiling blue water, the fear of falling awkwardly…the stereotype of the relaxing seaside holiday soon disappears. If you thought or hoped that this would be a “playful” activity (by the sea, in the sun,...), similar to bouldering (lots of people talk about the sea as if it’s a bouldering mat…), you’re in for a “cold bath”; the most ruthless mountaineering mindset is more appropriate.

You understand which it’s called "psico", “scary” and "solo". A poet may define what you feel as “sublime” or “enjoyable horror”, i.e. a mix of terror and attraction, of the exposure beneath your feet and your desire to conquer it, of not giving up. DWS makes you angry: it’s repulsive and attractive at the same time. One moment ecstasy, the next, defeat. The more you want to run away, the more it attracts you, and you’re there fiddling with your shoes in your trembling hands. Off you go.

You can’t retreat or ask for Tight. You can only keep climbing, relaxed, or fall. Splash. Relaxed, because you can’t have worries to hold you back, your arms are already tired enough. And when, after a few splashdowns (you’re bound to fall when you try routes at your limit), you start to climb relaxed, well, then you understand that you haven’t made a mistake with this holiday, or that you’re in fact discovering something you hadn’t expected: you’re climbing in its freest form. It’s just you, no ropes, quickdraws or useless thoughts. You just have to concentrate and climb. Stop.

The feeling of fear doesn’t ever completely disappear. Your victory is in tackling it in a jokey and calm way, often pretending to be calmer than you are. Ballet dancers make a supreme effort to dance on the tips of their toes and manage to smile…what are you complaining about, then? Then, you feel you’re finally gaining confidence, that your clumsy movements become smoother, even if the shakes can still get the better of you as you’re topping out, but at this point you fight as though the sea below was filled with open-mouthed white sharks. You climb the routes in a heroic dance under the gaze of the other participants who yell encouragement, as if there was no tomorrow.

You climb and get the better of your fears. You learn to accept falling in, you relax and fall naturally: your arms windmill to keep your balance (or maybe you’re trying to fly upwards), and as straight as an arrow you punch into the water to bob up straight away. When, then, you manage it, when the sequence of movements is continuous and every fibre of your body is concentrated on the climb, when, after having tried with real conviction, you find yourself on a piece of rock that no longer scares you, you take a deep breath and then you’re filled with a priceless feeling of pride, heroism and success.

You’ve overcome that climb and from your podium you can enjoy the supportive applause of those who never took their eyes off you. Some people, once they reach the top, jump in, a final act of defiance. But always feigning calmness. You can never deny the sea is stronger than you. This is what’s sublime about DWS.

Hints:

- You must have the guide Mallorca: Sport Climbing and Deep Water Soloing by Alan James and Mark Glaister. It describes not only routes and grades but contains (especially important) a risk rating, estimated from the depth of the water, the presence of rocks and the height of the crux;

- A good place to start which is not too intimidating is Cala Varques, a protected little bay, with blue sea. Very popular and enjoyable. Some people even rig up a slackline above the sea, and perform crazy stunts;

- In summer as well you can find cliffs that remain cool, where you can get out you rope, harness and quickdraws;

- You climb with wet shoes and the holds, as soon as the sun and wind touch them, dry out completely; the best time of year is the second half of September onwards;

- Unfortunately Mallorca has been the victim of very aggressive tourism deevlopment which often hasn’t respected the natural environment; there are places ruined by buildings built right next to the sea, but the island remains splendid and unspoiled hidden beaches are still to be found.

Maiorca - ph.Rachele Sighinolfi - Fabio Lasagni

Versante Sud - Sede legale Milano via G. Longhi, 10 - Registro Imprese di Milano n. 13612150156 N. REA MI-1569599 - Cap. Sociale euro 10.000,00