INTERVIEW WITH JONATHAN SIEGRIST

A point of view on Europe and USA

July 16, 2012

 An interview with Jonathan Siegrist - by Elena Corriero

I meet Jonathan at the French Cattle Ranch, in Ten Sleep, Wyoming, almost by chance. I had interviewed him one week before, but unfortunately not in person. Meeting him was a good chance to form a better impression. He’s extremely loquacious and relaxed, ready to comment on his experience in Europe and eager to know our point of view about the United States, and the climbing community here. He sports back varnish on his toe nails, in a touch of eccentricity that I wouldn’t have imagined.

He hints at his project on the granite face of the Diamond, in Colorado, and we start discussing the perspectives for climbing as a sport, and his opinion on the possible inclusion of climbing in the Olympic Games. Jonathan has no doubt that it could boost the sport immensely, by grooming the talents that have yet to come to light, and maybe offering the athletes the possibility to make a living out of climbing. There may be drawbacks to it, too, especially for what concerns access issues, very sensitive in a country like the United States. 

The differences between the USA and Europe were the first thing to attract my attention in the first place, when I read Jonathan’s blog about Ceüse and his FA of Coraux de la vie. 

Coraux de la vie: why did you choose that route, why Ceüse ? Was it the first time you visited?

I had traveled through Europe quite a bit when I was younger, but never as a climber, just as a tourist. This was my first climbing trip there. I came to France this year specifically to work with my main sponsor, Arc'Teryx, on a really cool film project about the Verdon Gorge with Swiss climber Nina Caprez. I made it a point to visit Ceüse after we finished - it's one of the crags that no matter where you live, if you climb, you've heard about it - and now I know why. I chose to climb on Corail de la vie because I thought it would be really cool to be a part of a new route at such a brilliant cliff, and the climbing style on the route is one of my favorites. 

Did you find any significant difference between the sport climbing scene in the US and Europe? And which are the biggest idiosyncrasies of US vs EU climbers? Their respective obsessions, attitudes..

Well on the large scale, climbing seems to be very well respected and much more appreciated by the general public in Europe. I noticed a higher standard for sure, especially among women -  I met or watched several women who climbed 8b+ or harder, which is rarer in the States; that was really cool. The only idiosyncrasies that really stuck out were that European climbers seem to smoke cigarettes a lot more, there were rarely dogs at the crag compared to the States, and throwing a wobbler is less of a faux pas there. One of the coolest things about climbing, to me, is that no matter where you find yourself on Earth, there are likely rocks to be climbed and people in love with climbing them. I've always found it easy to make friends and share with people, everywhere I've traveled to climb. Europe was certainly no exception. 

You wrote in your blog that "sport climbing is on the rise in USA": what does that mean? Does that mean that it was forsaken before?

When I started climbing in 2004 I was strictly bouldering for a few years. During that time bouldering was really taking off as a sport of its own and not just practice climbing any more. It was only after I started rope climbing that I really fell in love with climbing, but I remember feeling that amongst my peers and the community as a whole, climbing routes was not that cool any more. It had its day in the late 80s until the end of the century, but now every young climber was stoked on the simplicity, cheapness and appeal of bouldering. Over the last six years though, I've really noticed a growing interesting in sport climbing over here, which has been influenced, I think, by the development of better and better areas such the Red, and by a huge increase in indoor venues. More kids are getting into climbing routes, more 8c+ and harder routes are going in and the standard in the States is steadily rising. I think sport climbing could be on its way back! 

Do you think that international competition may have influenced the recent wave of reciprocal interest between US and States in sport climbing?

Personally, no. Sport climbing competition here in the States has yet to really take off. There is essentially one national roped event a year compared to tons of well-run bouldering comps. But I'm not much of a competitor so I might not be the best one to ask. 

Talking about the scene in the USA: which are the respective roles of trad and sport in US?

Sport climbing is very multi-generational, and like I mentioned, growing in popularity. Trad remains popular among Americans, but primarily in the moderate level (6a-7a or so), almost entirely with men, and largely with an older crowd. In fact, off the top of my head, I don't know anyone under the age of twenty five, male or female, who regularly plugs gear. There are some key characters who are definitely pushing the traditional pursuit, either in difficulty or in risk level, but I think there is still a lot of room for the development of hard trad. I think it would be awesome to take 9a sport climbing ability and apply it to climbing next level gear routes.

Do you think that the US is lacking hard sport routes, compared to Europe? 

Yes, of course! There is a dramatic difference in the volume of hard routes, especially in the 9a/+ range. I personally think that motivation is the key factor, not rock quality. Europe has incredible limestone, yes, definitely, but it also has a countless number of people actively searching, developing, bolting, across a relatively small geographical area. The number of people finding, cleaning and climbing 8c and above, here in the States, is shockingly low. And I can see why-- it takes a ton of energy, free time, and money to find such routes - not too many people have the motivation or time, let alone ability to climb at such a level. Not to mention private property and liability issues relating to climbing, and the simple fact that climbing is still a fringe sport to the general American public. Many "pro" climbers here still need to work a part time or full time job to support themselves - and they are the ones that would potentially be bushwhacking to find a new cliff otherwise. All this being said, things are definitely changing, and swaths of new potential all across the States are being explored, plus there does exist a growing core community of very stoked individuals who are sinking bolts all year. Again, I think sport climbing is on the rise. 

Which are your favorite climbing areas, and which are the ones you consider more promising?

My favorite areas would definitely include the Red River Gorge, Ceüse, Smith Rock, Las Vegas and a handful of smaller areas peppered around the states that are awesome! To me, the next frontier in hard American sport climbing is clearly in Kentucky and Nevada, with Wyoming, Utah and West Virginia being close behind. 

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