INTERVIEW > COMPETITION > TITO CLAUDIO TRAVERSA
Faith - Donnas T&GPhoto
Monregalesi al rhum - Finale Ligure -T&GPhoto
Portatrici di sale - Champorcher -T&GPhoto
Avaria - Finale Ligure T&GPhoto
TITO CLAUDIO TRAVERSA
The young promise
April 09, 2010
Tito Claudio Traversa (born in 2001) is one of the best of the very young Italian climbers: Under 10 national boulder champion, winner of the Lecco Promo Rock and third at the Arco Rock Junior, he has redpointed Le portatrici di sale 7c and Bricolage 7b at Champorcher (Valle d’Aosta), Spettri nelle tenebre 7b+ and La formula magica 7b at Tschachtelaz near to Gressoney (Valle d’Aosta), Vietato Banfare 7b+ and Trip 7a+ at Frachiamo (Valle dell’Orco – Piemonte), Perchè non parli 7c, Ombre lunghe 7c and Fiaba sit start 7b+ at Monte nero near to Ivrea (Piemonte). At Finale Ligure redpointed two "historical" 7b’s : Avaria and Monregalesi al rhum, in addition to Un uomo un perchè 7b+ and Topomix colpisce ancora un 7c+. At Ceredo (Verona) bagged Super canna "historical” testpiece 7b+ of the crag. In the last few days (April 2010) he’s climbed two 8a’s: Faith, at the Biellesi sector of Donnas (Valle d'Aosta) and La diretta Basolo at Frachiamo, as well as another 7c+, Black faith, also at the Biellesi sector of Donnas.
Tito’s father was a sports climber in the Nineties (up to 8a) and his son has inherited his great passion for the vertical world and his technical ability. Obviously Tito has really applied himself and been willing to put himself to the test, has listened to the advice he’s received and in no time at all has reached a high level.
Interview by Mario Sertori
For those who don’t know you, can you introduce yourself....
"I’m 8 (ny nineth birthday will be on 22 April), I live at Ivrea (Torino province) and am in my third year at the Fiorana junior school."
When did you discover climbing and with whom?
"I started doing sports early on: roller blading, skating, skiing, cycling and only the odd bit of climbing. Then, in 2007, thanks to a holiday in Verdon with my Dad and one of his friends with whom he climbed 20 years ago, I top-roped my first third grade climb. Then grade fours at Finale in August 2007.
What do your schoolfriends think of you, knowing you are so good at climbing?
"Nothing in particular, maybe because they don’t know the world of climbing. They ask me questions when I show them a medal I’ve won in a competition or my rucksack with shoes, chalk, harness etc."
Do you regularly train? Indoors or outdoors?
"This year, fortunately, I have managed to train regularly a couple of times a week. Once a week I go to be trained by Alberto Gnerro in the "Run out" wall at Pollone. I am in their team for competitions. The other time to the Palabraccini in Torino. Every other weekend I go cragging."*
Generally do you prefer to climb indoor or outdoor?
"I prefer outdoor, indoor is good for training and is fun for competitions."
How tall are you? How do you find bolting on routes?
"Unfortunately, for the moment, I am only 132 cm tall. Typically, especially on harder routes, the bolts for me are well-spaced, as are the holds, so that some dynos, with the bolt below my feet, are particularly “thrilling" (but I like falling!)"
Do you like bouldering?
"Yes, as much as doing routes. Up to now I haven’t bouldered that much, but I think that in future I’ll do more."
What is your preferred style of climbing?
“If you mean what "type" of crag I prefer, the answer is overhanging. If you mean what "way" of climbing I’d say "Sharma style"."
And your climbers that for you are "role models"?
"Adam Ondra and Chris Sharma have always been, but also Klem Loskot and Alex Huber. I like to think of two top climbers that are also friends: Usobiaga, Ramonet and of course Alberto Gnerro."
What do you like most about climbing?
"When you start off on the route. There’s just you and the rock and you have to find the right movements, different each time, on each different type of rock, to get to the top. But also the beautiful places, Nature, the people, new friends, etc"
Which is your favourite crag?
"Among those where I’ve climbed Siurana. There are many Spanish crags I’d like to visit - Oliana, Santa Linya, Margalef - as well as Kalymnos."
What was it like when you got to the top of your first 8a?
"Fantastic. I really wanted to do an 8a before my nineth birthday, and in particular the route that my Dad had climbed 20 years ago. And then, 3 days later, I did the second one... Incredible."
You have competed in competitions: third at the Rock Junior and you won the PromoRock at Lecco. Do you like competitions, the atmosphere ...?
"Yes, I really like competitions. I like to remember Promo Rock because it was my first competition, the Rock Junior becuase it’s a great event with kids from all over the world and you climb on the same wall as for the Rock Master and finally the Italian Championship because I won the gold medal in bouldering."
Lastly...what plans do you have...?
"To go in the not too distant future to try the first part of "Rambla" (the crack) which Adam grades 8a/a+ and then to be able to climb any of the routes in the "El Pati" sector at Siurana."
Faith - Donnas T&GPhoto
Monregalesi al rhum - Finale Ligure -T&GPhoto
Supercanna - Ceredo Ph. Andrea Tosi
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