Ines Papert - Illuminati M11+ WI 6+ ph. Hans Hornberger
Lisi e Ines - Illuminati M11+ WI 6+ ph. Hans Hornberger
Illuminati M11+ WI 6+ ph. Hans Hornberger
DOLOMITES: ILLUMINATI 1^ FEMALE REPEAT
Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer
February 05, 2012
On Jan. 27, the German climber Ines Papert partnered by the Austrian Lisi Steurer managed the ascent of Illuminati M11 + /WI 6 +, the icefall opened by Albert Leichtfried in Vallunga (Val Gardena), thus the probable third repeat and first female ascente.
Papert had tried Illuminati for three times already, with Leichtfried in 2006, with Astner in 2009 and Angelika Reiner in 2010, sending the section of dry, but finding the section of ice not in favorable conditions.
As she writes on her blog, was alerted for acceptable conditions by the Catores’ Mountain Guide Hubert Moroder and once in action found the crux free-standing rather thin and delicate, so much so that she could not put screws for several meters.
Illuminati was repeated in 2008 by Florian Riegler and by the party of the Slovenian Klemen Premrl and the Italian Erik Svab. In 2010, Spanish Luis Penin failed to complete the section of ice in reason of the poor condition of the same.
Source: websiteof Ines Papert
Illuminati
A.Leichtfried and D.Tavener 2006
Difficulty: IV / 6 + / M11 +
Length: 165m
Exposure: SE
Altitude: 2000m
Approach: 1 hour
Report of the openers
1. pitch.: M 11 -. 30m, 12m overhang. Endurance, crux step towards the end of the pitch
2. pitch: M 11 +. 25m, 10m overhang. Severe, difficult mixed climbing
3. roll: pitchM 8 -. 30m, 3m overhanging. Over the curtain of ice
4. pitch: WI 4. 30m, vertical in part. Perfect ice, easy progression
5. pitch: WI 6 +. 50m, vertical. Pillar with ice of poor quality
Access: The icefall is clearly visible from the path at the top of the valley following the valley of Yosemite Ice Fall. Reach the hump that hides the first part of the icefall
Papert had tried Illuminati for three times already, with Leichtfried in 2006, with Astner in 2009 and Angelika Reiner in 2010, sending the section of dry, but finding the section of ice not in favorable conditions.
As she writes on her blog, was alerted for acceptable conditions by the Catores’ Mountain Guide Hubert Moroder and once in action found the crux free-standing rather thin and delicate, so much so that she could not put screws for several meters.
Illuminati was repeated in 2008 by Florian Riegler and by the party of the Slovenian Klemen Premrl and the Italian Erik Svab. In 2010, Spanish Luis Penin failed to complete the section of ice in reason of the poor condition of the same.
Source: websiteof Ines Papert
Illuminati
A.Leichtfried and D.Tavener 2006
Difficulty: IV / 6 + / M11 +
Length: 165m
Exposure: SE
Altitude: 2000m
Approach: 1 hour
Report of the openers
1. pitch.: M 11 -. 30m, 12m overhang. Endurance, crux step towards the end of the pitch
2. pitch: M 11 +. 25m, 10m overhang. Severe, difficult mixed climbing
3. roll: pitchM 8 -. 30m, 3m overhanging. Over the curtain of ice
4. pitch: WI 4. 30m, vertical in part. Perfect ice, easy progression
5. pitch: WI 6 +. 50m, vertical. Pillar with ice of poor quality
Access: The icefall is clearly visible from the path at the top of the valley following the valley of Yosemite Ice Fall. Reach the hump that hides the first part of the icefall
Descent: 3 equipped rappels on the right edge (see photo)
Report by Albert Leichtfried from Alpine Ice
Report by Albert Leichtfried from Alpine Ice
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Ines Papert - Illuminati M11+ WI 6+ ph. Hans Hornberger
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