NEWS > MOUNTAINEERING > BRUDERLIEBE (8B/B+) NEW ROUTE BY HANS JOERG AU...
Hans Joerg Auer ph Damiano Levati
ph Damiano Levati
ph Damiano Levati
BRUDERLIEBE (8B/B+) NEW ROUTE BY HANS JOERG AUER
South Wall of Marmolada (Dolomites) - VIDEO
October 08, 2011
Hans Joerg Auer, partnered by his brother Vitus, has managed the FA of Bruderliebe (800 m 19 pitches 8b/8b+) a new route on the South Wall of Marmolada, on the right of the Pillar Dorso d’Elefante.
On August 21st Hans Joerg did also the FFA of the route in 11,5 hours climbing.
Hans Joerg wrote in his website report "After many days of trying, many falls, hours hanging out on the wall, times of rebounds but also after enjoying the feeling getting stronger, finally August 21 was my day. I really had tears in my eyes, clipping the belay after the send of the crux pitch.
“As in the time-lapse photography, pictures from all corners of the south wall run by my brain. Even if there are still just 600 metres height up to the summit. I know that I am not deprived of the today’s success any more. Once again I shut the eyes before I continue pulling the rope. After 11,5 hours we shudder mutually the hands. Tired and eroded we sit on the summit and enjoy the last rays of the sun. I can´t catch it yet, however, just I experience one of my nicest moments in my climbing life and coincidentally on my mountain. Thanks so much Vitus.”
On August 24th, partnered by Gerhard Fiegl , Auer managed the FFA of Colpo di Coda, route opened by Maurizio Giordani on 2006, and suggests grade 7b. He also opened 4 new pitches at the exit of Schwalbenschwanz, naming the variant Coco Jambo, 4 pitches 6c+
"BRUDERLIEBE
Location: Pilastro Dorso d’Elefante/Marmolada South Face/Italy
Length: 19 pitches
Total vertical gain on rock: 800m
Proposed grading: 8b/8b+
Protection: Camalots up to #3, pitons, bolts (where necessary)
Character: Amazing line on slightly overhanging terrain on the lower part. The upper part is wild and alpine with some loose rock on the last pitches.
First ascent: 21st of August 2011 after 11,5 hours on the wall
First ascentionist: Hansjörg Auer accompanied by his brother Vitus
Length of time in total: 8 days (for the lower part); the upper part was opened during the first free ascent.
COLPO DI CODA:
I teamed up with my friend Gerhard Fiegl and freed the route, opened by Maurizio Giordani in 2006, in a 9,5 hours push. Super nice climbing along one of the last indepent lines on the South Face.
Facts :
Location: Punta Ombretta/Marmolada South Face/Italy
Length: 28 pitches
Total vertical gain on rock: 900m
Proposed free grading: 7b
Date: 24th of August
Protection: Camalots up to #3, pitons, 3 bolts (bolted by the first ascentionist)
COCO JAMBO:
It´s a direct exit to “Schwalbenschwanz”. Perfect limestone, exposed climbing, alpine protection combined with the funny lower part of “Schwalbenschwanz”. Opened together with Gerhard Fiegl.
Facts:
Location: Punta Ombretta/Marmolada South Face/Italy
Length: 4 pitches (new)
Total vertical gain on rock: 750m
Proposed free grading: 6c+
Date: 29th of August 2011
Protection: Camalots up to #3, pitons"
Source and more infos: Hans Joerg Auer website
More on Auer: Hallucinogen wall Waiting for Godot Panaroma Vogelfrei
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