NEWS > MULTI PITCH > TAKE THE LONG WAY HOME BY GLOWACZ AND FRIENDS
TAKE THE LONG WAY HOME BY GLOWACZ AND FRIENDS
5.13 on Baffin Island
September 26, 2008
From April to June 2008, German alpinists Stephan Glowacz and Robert Jasper, together with photographer Klaus Fengler and cameramen Holger Heuber and Mariusz Hoffman, traveled from Pond Inlet to the northeastern coast of Baffin Island, Canada, where they made the first ascent of Take the Long Way Home on the Bastion (5.13 A4, 21 pitches, 2,300'), one of Baffin's most difficult, before literally taking the long way home—skiing and kiting
Because of extremely cold temperatures, storms and unpredictable rock quality, they resorted to a mix of aid and free climbing. Cracks were filled with frozen dirt and sand, and the leader was forced to clean them with a hammer and thin pitons to make room for fingertips. The team spent twelve days on the wall, at first descending and ascending fixed ropes back to base camp, then moving up the wall with a portaledge.
more info on Alpinist.com
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