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THE HOT SUMMER OF ALEX HUBER
Between new route and free solo
This summer Alexander Huber laid siege to the Tyrolean and French Alps opening two 5.14a multipitch routes, Sansara and Feuertaufe, and a free soloing the Swiss Route (5.10c, 400m) on the Grand Capucin.
Having opened Sansara in spring of this year, Huber returned to free the route in June. Sansara is a six-pitch sport climb characterized by three roofs. The most difficult feature is the first roof, 8 meters long and reaching difficulties of 5.14a, though the third roof (6 meters) includes a notable splitter finger crack. Huber redpointed Sansara on June 25.
A month later Huber, with Guido Unterwurzacher, redpointed Feuertaufe, a line on the south face of the Sonnwand that the two had opened the previous summer. Pitch 2 is rated 5.14a, though Huber says the greatest challenge is not physical, but mental: "On the crux you climb with the bolt more than 4 meters below the feet, and so a failure results in a fall of more than 12 meters."
And five days after his Feuertaufe redpoint, Huber made a successful summit of the 3838m Grand Capucin in the Mont Blanc range, free soloingh the Swiss Route.
info Alpinist.com
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