NEW SCHOOL CREATIVE TRAD
An interview to Cody Roth (by Elena Corriero)
June 14, 2012
Cody Roth, 28, portrays himself as an eclectic spirit, who avers the importance of enriching oneself at all levels; for him, climbing is a bridge to step out of the “comfort zone,” and to probe oneself, but it must not be a “staircase to ignorance.” Diversity of interests, curiosity and active involvement in social and political stances are at least as important as climbing. His attitude reverberates in the approach he takes towards his trad-style FA of the sport route Mainliner in Las Conchas, New Mexico, which he hopes will become an example of what he defines as “new school creative trad.” Let’s take a closer look at what this means.
On Mainliner: why climb a sport route on gear?
Just because something has bolts, that alone, doesn't mean it has to be done as a sport route, there's room in climbing for personal interpretation and creativity. Once I realized it was possible on gear, I couldn't let go of the thought of it, it became my Zahir.
How would you describe the ascent on gear, with regard to gear placement, risks assessment and the like?
Placing gear on lead added an element of complexity to what already is, at least for me, an intriguing and thought provoking route in itself. There's of course also the added element of risk and risk assessment that comes with opting to climb in this minimal style. On Mainliner, falling off in the crux sections results in some big falls, but the gear is pretty solid. However, there are some sections of 7b+ climbing where the gear is poor and a fall could result in a 7m ground-fall. That's one of the reasons why I opted not to remove the bolts, I don't want to force everyone who tries Mainliner to take on the danger that I took on. Maybe if I'd done the route's FA or if it had been bolted yesterday, versus back in the early nineties I'd see it differently. I wanted to demonstrate my style, but I don't want to force it down everyone's throat. To boot, if I pulled the bolts and someone got injured, particularly one of the young and up and coming New Mexico youngsters, I'd fell pretty bad about it.
New school creative trad climbing: what is your idea of this new school? How would you like trad, and sport climbing as well, to develop?
New school trad climbing in my eyes means taking on lines that aren't obvious trad lines, i.e. cracks, etc., and it also means looking for lines that have the athleticism found in sport climbing. In general, I would like climbing to develop in as low an impact style as possible, I like the idea of being minimal. In terms of progressive climbing development, I think bolts are cool, if there's no chance of gear placements. If there's the possibility for sections to go on gear, than they should be left unbolted, and bolts can be used in the sections where no natural pro is possible.
What's the challenge of trad, the reason why you think it is important? Taking the risk, or respecting the environment?
The challenge lies in the minimalism of the approach. When there's the option to do something trad, it's all that more special, and the means of it seem more fair, from my point of view. Maybe it can be compared with bow hunting versus hunting with a shotgun... Not all trad is risky, but if there's is an element of risk on a particular line, so long as it's not risking death, then I often find that added element enjoyable because it forces me to have to perform.
I think one could safely argue that trad is lower impact, but we should be careful not to over exaggerate that fact. Climbing isn't as environmentally friendly as it is often made out to be, bolts or no bolts. I think we should own up to that, and we should also do what we can to minimize our environmental impact, in both our daily lives and our pursuit of climbing.
You mention on your profile the intuitive zone of (un)consciousness, and your search of it. How did you develop this conception? Do you think that you can reach those states better when you are taking higher risks? It is very similar to Zen philosophy, and the art of sword by Japanese masters...
I wouldn't call it a search or a quest per say, although I suppose it is something I seek out, and it's why I have the utmost respect for climbing onsight. Onsight climbing is so intuitive it's a true testament of one's talent. Risk is relative, what's viewed as a risk or not a risk is all in the eyes of the beholder. In general, I think it's important and healthy for one to be willing to step out of their comfort zone, to embrace insecurity and to be willing to take on the risk of failure, whatever the task at hand may be.
How do you evaluate risk, and what chances do you take?
I'm a gambler at heart, I once even financed a stay in South Africa by playing black jack. I try to calculate risk, and I try to never gamble what I can't afford to lose.
Being an eclectic person (rather than an monomaniac climber): what does that mean for you?
It means that climbing is not my sole existence. I'm grateful to climbing, because it's allowed me to live a life less ordinary, but I can't eat sleep and breath climbing. I have to have other outlets, interests and influences to draw from.
Is the present generation of climbers too detached from society? Do you think an involvement with society is important?
Hmmm... That's a rather broad and perhaps subjective question. I don't want to pass judgment on the present generation of climbers. Climbers have become a very diverse bunch over the past decade, it's impossible to group them. However I do think it's important to take the time to be both active socially and politically. On a personal level, I take these two themes quite seriously. I attend anti Tea Party protests when I can, because I see this group as the foundation of a fascist movement in America. I won't marry until everyone has the right to marry, and I also raise money and contribute funds to politicians and political and social causes that I believe in. I would encourage all climbers to avoid antipathy, and to confront and question social norms, and to be willing to take a stance against xenophobia, homophobia, fascism and racism. I view antipathy as that which is most dangerous to society, and humanity for that matter.
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