Pirmin Bertle ph. Bertle coll.
PIRMIN BERTLE 2 9A FA’S IN 75 MIN VIDEO
In Charmey Switzerland
May 15, 2012
German climber Pirmin Bertle has managed in only 75 minutes the first ascent of two 9a routes, Chromosome X and Chromosome Y.
His report: “Unserious research on Google has shown that sending Chromosome X and Chromosome Y in Charmey the 03/30/2012 between 7:00 and 8:15 pm has been the fastest double (first) ascent of two 9a routes ever. A performance that would take probably just some tries of preparation for someone like Adam Ondra, took me a whole of 80 work outs. However, conditions in my case have been hindered: Our son had been born only two weeks earlier and was scattering our nights and furthermore I tried to keep in line with Swiss grading. Despite all temptation to let myself been gently carried away by the stream of modern grading inflation, as seen especially in the southern regions of princess Europe.
After double ascents in one day of one could think that this would be all about my special discipline. In this case however the second of the two ascents wasn’t planned at all. I just had these 75 min of fairly good conditions, in between wall getting shady and the fall of night. After having clipped the anker of Chromosome Xat 7:15 pm I was looking forward to calling it a day and having a beer when I decided to nevertheless do some training in Chromosome Y. 15 minutes later this decision lead directly to an uncontrolled flush of jubilation rolling through the valley.
The two new routes are clearly harder than everything I repeated in this grade and about as hard as my other 9a-first ascents. All kind of aspirants for repetitions are welcome! Thanks to my sponsor Edelrid for the successful cooperation.”
Source: lizardclimbing
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