http://www.up-climbing.com/en/index.html news from our website http://www.up-climbing.com/en/index.html?guid=3312   Jonathan Joly, Alpine Guide based in Briançon, has repeated on Jan.31,  the difficult ice fall Rappel toi que tu es un gnome, 200 m IV/6 in Vallée du Rabioux, south of Argentière la Bessée. The icefall was opened on a severe vertical wall, back on 1999 by R.Borgis, D.Charignon and S.Foissac.   Jonathan found the ice in very different conditions, dry, fat, soft, very wet...but overall good and in a great ambience.   Approach: From Chateauxroux (located on N94 between Gap and Argentière la Bessée, take D463 until to a little chapel and then D863 direction Chameyer. From here the route goes into the vallée du Rabioux: follow it, until allowed by the snow conditions.   Rappel toi que tu es un gnome is the icefall on the extreme right of the big wall   Topo: Brianconnais – Argentierois – Embrunais  R.Borgis and P. Turin Source: Jonathan Joly                     http://www.up-climbing.com/en/index.html?guid=3312 http://www.up-climbing.com/en/index.html?guid=3311   Even if the season is not really suited to deep water soloing, for those who are tired of seeing reports of frozen waterfalls, we propose this interesting article by Rachele Sighinolfi, a strong climber, in love with psicobloc. Rachele wrote this special report to explain the irresistible attraction of climbing on the cliffs of Mallorca, and the difference between climbing suspended above the calm and reassuring sea of ​​the bays and above the open sea, where the  waves  beat incessantly creating a great rushing and the fear of falling into, takes you at the stomach Mallorca, sublime Deep Water Soloing Text: Rachele Sighinolfi Pictures: Rachele Sighinolfi, Fabio Lasagni   When you set out for Mallorca not knowing exactly what Deep Water Soloing involves (as they say, you don’t know until you try something), you imagine your body in the turquoise water, the hot sand between your toes, people in swimsuits and the salt on your suntanned skin. Then you start to ask yourself questions: will the rock be greasy? Will I be climbing with my skin all wrinkly and trashed? My wet shoes, will they grip? Do I have to hold my nose when I fall in? But above all: will I be able to fall in elegantly, or will my body get bruised all over by the impact with the sea?   Maybe you go to Mallorca after having seen the video of Klem Loskot and Tim Emmet with “Psicobloc” written across it, a term (it means “Scary Bouldering”) which tries to hide itself in the furthest corner of your brain as you are packing for the trip. Well, in this video Loskot says: “You don’t realise how high you are, but when you fall it’s a shock how long you’re falling for, you’re in the air for ages and you’re still falling, falling, then … splash. And every time you’re surprised how soft the water is”. A few seconds later, Loskot dynos for two far-away holes in the limestone, 12 m up, and falls... When the video finishes you’re enthralled, amazed and scared of that drop. Ok, you say, but he’s Loskot.   Then you arrive in Mallorca, put on your shoes and even before you leave the canoe or the little dingy, the exposure you feel as if you were already 10 m up. You flick through the guide with barely-hidden preoccupation, looking for the shortest and easiest routes, you resign yourself to traversing and every time you try to climb upwards, your legs start shaking uncontrollably. There’s even a moment when you tell yourself this is the wrong holiday for you, and it’s not that brief... Here the struggle that’s at the heart of climbing makes itself felt: between your fears and your tenacity.   In Mallorca, this struggle is epic: the coastline is splendid, the rock, with its intense colours, and all shades from red to yellow, from grey-blue to black, plunges into the sea. The features make you dream of a physical, robust dance, with enormous holes, crimps, slopers, and pockets from big buckets to two-finger holes…and the sea is scary.   The cliffs rise out of the sea: those in the coves are more reassuring, with their clear blue swimming-pool floor, but the cliffs over the open sea, very high, take your breath away, not just for their beauty. The roar of the sea with the waves crashing, the white foam on the boiling blue water, the fear of falling awkwardly…the stereotype of the relaxing seaside holiday soon disappears. If you thought or hoped that this would be a “playful” activity (by the sea, in the sun,...), similar to bouldering (lots of people talk about the sea as if it’s a bouldering mat…), you’re in for a “cold bath”; the most ruthless mountaineering mindset is more appropriate.   You understand which it’s called "psico", “scary” and "solo".  A poet may define what you feel as “sublime” or “enjoyable horror”, i.e. a mix of terror and attraction, of the exposure beneath your feet and your desire to conquer it, of not giving up. DWS makes you angry: it’s repulsive and attractive at the same time. One moment ecstasy, the next, defeat. The more you want to run away, the more it attracts you, and you’re there fiddling with your shoes in your trembling hands. Off you go.   You can’t retreat or ask for Tight. You can only keep climbing, relaxed, or fall. Splash. Relaxed, because you can’t have worries to hold you back, your arms are already tired enough. And when, after a few splashdowns (you’re bound to fall when you try routes at your limit), you start to climb relaxed, well, then you understand that you haven’t made a mistake with this holiday, or that you’re in fact discovering something you hadn’t expected: you’re climbing in its freest form. It’s just you, no ropes, quickdraws or useless thoughts. You just have to concentrate and climb. Stop.   The feeling of fear doesn’t ever completely disappear. Your victory is in tackling it in a jokey and calm way, often pretending to be calmer than you are. Ballet dancers make a supreme effort to dance on the tips of their toes and manage to smile…what are you complaining about, then? Then, you feel you’re finally gaining confidence, that your clumsy movements become smoother, even if the shakes can still get the better of you as you’re topping out, but at this point you fight as though the sea below was filled with open-mouthed white sharks. You climb the routes in a heroic dance under the gaze of the other participants who yell encouragement, as if there was no tomorrow.   You climb and get the better of your fears. You learn to accept falling in, you relax and fall naturally: your arms windmill to keep your balance (or maybe you’re trying to fly upwards), and as straight as an arrow you punch into the water to bob up straight away. When, then, you manage it, when the sequence of movements is continuous and every fibre of your body is concentrated on the climb, when, after having tried with real conviction, you find yourself on a piece of rock that no longer scares you, you take a deep breath and then you’re filled with a priceless feeling of pride, heroism and success.   You’ve overcome that climb and from your podium you can enjoy the supportive applause of those who never took their eyes off you. Some people, once they reach the top, jump in, a final act of defiance. But always feigning calmness. You can never deny the sea is stronger than you. This is what’s sublime about DWS.    Hints: -          You must have the guide Mallorca: Sport Climbing and Deep Water Soloing by Alan James and Mark Glaister. It describes not only routes and grades but contains (especially important) a risk rating, estimated from the depth of the water, the presence of rocks and the height of the crux;   -          A good place to start which is not too intimidating is Cala Varques, a protected little bay, with blue sea. Very popular and enjoyable. Some people even rig up a slackline above the sea, and perform crazy stunts;   -          In summer as well you can find cliffs that remain cool, where you can get out you rope, harness and quickdraws;   -          You climb with wet shoes and the holds, as soon as the sun and wind touch them, dry out completely; the best time of year is the second half of September onwards;   -          Unfortunately Mallorca has been the victim of very aggressive tourism deevlopment which often hasn’t respected the natural environment; there are places ruined by buildings built right next to the sea, but the island remains splendid and unspoiled hidden beaches are still to be found. http://www.up-climbing.com/en/index.html?guid=3311 http://www.up-climbing.com/en/index.html?guid=3303     "Two winter months of bouldering in sunny Tuscany around Monte Amiata, featuring a few areas, some classics like Ossezia and the first ascents of Achille and L'Ultimo dei Moicani. All mixed with local songs and nature shots. Please enjoy responsibly."   Michele Caminati L'Ultimo dei Moicani 8B+ Blog Michele Caminati   http://www.up-climbing.com/en/index.html?guid=3303 http://www.up-climbing.com/en/index.html?guid=3299 Christian “Picco” Piccolruaz and Albert Leichtfried have done the first redpoint (and the first flash ascent) of Felsige Gaerten  (M8 WI7)  a mixed variant of Haengende Gaerten,  the classical hard icefall in Sellraintal (Tyrol, Austria) opened in  1988 by Andreas Orgler and  Otti Wiedmann. "To be honest, Picco's idea to put up a mixedline for winters with less ice at "Hängende Gärten" seemed quite odd to me"  Leichfried writes on his website But  the decision to go turned to be right: " the climb was brilliant - especially pitch three turned out to offer challenging iceclimbing at its best and produced a big smile on my face! Thanks Picco for this odd but genial idea!"   More infos:  Albert Leichtfried TOPO http://www.up-climbing.com/en/index.html?guid=3299 http://www.up-climbing.com/en/index.html?guid=3295 Canadian climber Sean McColl sent Kheops Assis, the 8B+ boulder opened by Antoine Vandeputte in Cuvier Rempart, Fontainebleau. Source: Blog  Sean McColl - Sendage  Kairn http://www.up-climbing.com/en/index.html?guid=3295 http://www.up-climbing.com/en/index.html?guid=3294 Quite good situation for ice climbing in Vallon du Fournel, Argentière la Bessée – Briançon. With a 4x4 vehiccle or chains, it is possible to reach the parking near the  Davidoff icefall.     See the photos taken on January 25th     Source: Up-climbing   http://www.up-climbing.com/en/index.html?guid=3294 http://www.up-climbing.com/en/index.html?guid=3287   On Sunday, January 22, in Campsut Val d'Avers, Graubünden - Switzerland, has been a severe  accident due to the fall of a stalactite of ice An Italian  was taken to hospital by helicopter of the Rega with severe trauma   Fortunately it seems not to be life threatening. In the same cliff, over the years, there have been some similar cases and in one of these, unfortunately, died a German woman hit by a large piece of ice.   Please note that the site is part of the area in which access is forbidden out of respect of the period of winter rest of the deers and that this can result in heavy fines.   The most important thing, if you go there anyway, is not to be under suspended  ice - strategy to be put into practice ever, in any place with these characteristics   Source: Up-climbing.com   http://www.up-climbing.com/en/index.html?guid=3287 http://www.up-climbing.com/en/index.html?guid=3284   L’altro volto del pianeta is a great icefall, near the famous ski areas of Sauze d'Oulx and Sestriere, in Piedmont, Italy.    FA Gian Carlo Grassi  1986 partnered by  Nello Margaria.   Be very careful for avalanche danger, check the conditions of the snow.   Close to L'altro volto del pianeta: Cascatone del Boucher and  Rio Gentira, all in good conditions   L’altro volto del pianeta Gian Carlo Grassi - Nello Margaria 1986 130m WI 5+ Descente: rappelling from spit on the left   TOPO   http://www.up-climbing.com/en/index.html?guid=3284 http://www.up-climbing.com/en/index.html?guid=3282 Memory is a parallax V14 (8B+) FA by Dave Graham. Video Bear Cam Media http://www.up-climbing.com/en/index.html?guid=3282 http://www.up-climbing.com/en/index.html?guid=3281 Austrian climber Barbara Raudner just sent Full Equip 8c, a route bolted by Victor Fernandez  in Oliana, Spain  Full Equip was also done by two other female climbers: Daila Ojeda  on December 2010 and Nina Caprez  on March 2011.   Some recent results of Barbara:  Honig 8c in Hollental  Mauerblümchen 8b+/8c Frankenfels (AUT, 2010), FA  Indotimes· 8b+ Höllental (AUT, 2011) (realizzata poco prima di Honig) Keitos Palast· 8c Höllental (AUT, 2006) (First woman in Austria to sent  8c) Selbst ist das Kind 8c Adlitzgräben (AUT, 2007)  Doubleoverhead 8c Adlitzgräben (AUT, 2008)  Via del Quim 8b+ Margalef (ESP, 2011)  Marjetica· 8b/+ Misja Pec (SLO, 2011)  Chessbitches 8b/+ Kärnten (AUT, 2011) Gott gegen Lisa Simpson 8b+ Adlitzgräben (AUT 2009)   Barbara Raudner Website http://www.up-climbing.com/en/index.html?guid=3281