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UP MAGAZINE > UP2010 > CONTENTS UP2010


CONTENTS UP2010

The best of mountaineering in 2009

December 21, 2009

To our readers

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Johnny Dawes
Interview by Peter Herold - preview a page

Dawes, born in 1964, revolutionised British climbing in the mid-Eighties with the first ascents of climbs graded E8 and E9 on the UK grading scale. These included both very bold “trad” climbs with sport F7b to F7c climbing with poor (or no) protection where a fall meant serious injury or death, or well-protected (including bolted routes on slate) routes requiring a new level of technical difficulty. Unlike fitness and strength which you could train, these routes required new levels of technical and mental skills, which you either “had” or “didn’t have”.

Iker Pou
Interview by Maurizio Oviglia   preview a page

Top level pitches are always bolted by the same people, and that is us…we are always looking for new projects for our own enjoyment as well as for others, while many climbers who are part of the sports climbing élite (especially some great athletes who take part in international competitions and who climb a few days a year on rock), spend their time training and stealing first ascents.

Dream Time - The story
by Massimo Malpezzi   preview a page

Cristian Core resolutely states: «If you’re looking for glory, you should do a different sport. You don’t try Dream Time to become famous, you try a line like this because it’s incredible, it’s a diamond-shaped boulder sitting all by itself, in the wood, in a position overlooking the whole valley, it seems to be mounted on a pedestal, the holds are all in the right places, as if it was made-to-measure to be climbed; for these reasons you try Dream Time, not for the grade, but for its purity. Inside of you, you know that in the world there are very few boulders like this.»
 

Biographie - Ceuse - The story
by Maurizio Oviglia        preview a page

Biographie is one of the world’s most difficult and famous climbs. This fame is certainly due to its difficulty, but above all to its line, with its supreme purity and beauty. We wanted to tell the story of the route, and discover how Biographie, from an anonymous project, nothing more, bolted by a famous Himalayan climber, has now become one of the most sought-after ticks in the world.

Cassin-Ratti Torre Trieste
by Ivo Rabanser         preview a page

“The hours spent up there – Cassin will remember later – during that soft August evening, lit up by the moon and brightened by the youthful exuberance of Ratti - now no longer with us, cut down by the unexpected disaster of a fratricidal struggle - assume an immense value forever alive in my memory.”

Motörhead, Eldorado
by Claude Remy      preview a page

The best granite slab in the Alps, Eldorado, almost five hundred metres high, reveals the sublime which characterises the maximum expression of art, in this case hard rock and its emotional harmony with the incredible arrangement of holds on the rock. For any artist the maximum is to reach perfection : to reach the perfect note, or else to climb one’s dream route…

Remy Brothers.
Going hard-rock
Interview by Maurizio Oviglia   preview a page

It is impossible to count all the routes they have opened up until now, these two brothers known as the most prolific route-openers in climbing history. They are the only ones that, painstakingly, keep count, like only the Swiss can. Apart from the undoubted quality of some of their creations, such as Motorhead, the route we present in this edition, we want to know what their philosophy is and where their inexhaustible motivation comes from.

Events, competitions and gatherings 2009
Melloblocco
Arco Rock Legends
Kendal Mountain Festival
Rock Master
by Riky Felderer

Mountaineering and iceclimbing 2009 News   preview
Rock 2009 News          preview a page
Bouldering 2009 News

Crags
Áger (Spain)
Pajkova Streha (Spider's Roof) (Slovenja)          preview
Telendos (Greece)
S. Vito Lo Capo (Italy)
Antayla (Turkey)
Schattenreich (Austria)
Pembroke (UK)

Multi-pitch routes
La memoire du glacier (zoccolo dell’eveque – v. d’aosta)  preview a page
Anemofobia (gruppo del coglians – friuli)     preview a page
Animal house (gruppo del coglians – friuli)
Miami beach (gruppo del coglians – friuli)        preview
Pina gelada (gruppo del coglians – friuli)
Tutto per la casa (gruppo del coglians – friuli)         preview
Ocus pocus (piz serauta, marmolada – trentino)
Linea maginot (gruppo del sella – trentino)
Batajan (torri del sella – trentino)
Spigolo delle stelle (torri del sella – trentino)
Veci muloni (monte popena – trentino)
Il cristo pensante (pale di s. martino – trentino)
Skyluke for alex (pale di s. martino – trentino)
Sole rosso (eastern dolomities – pilastro dei camosci)
Babudri-sain (eastern dolomities – teston di monte rudo)
Grande luna (eastern dolomities – torre bulla)
Babudri-sain (western dolomities – punta abe)
Via del giardino pensile (western dolomities – sumamut)
Nuova via andrea e paolo (rocca du fò – liguria)
Via Giovanni Cordani (rocca del prete – liguria)
Prenotazione obbligatoria (muzzerone – liguria)
C’e’ poco da ridere (sasso rosso – toscana)
Vita bassa (monte procinto – toscana)
El duende del tocaor (sperlonga – lazio)
I guerrieri della luce (sperlonga – lazio)
Umbras (punta cusitore – sardegna)
Phartenia (punta giradili – sardinia)
Chiacchere e distintivo (monte pellegrino – sicily)
Fatti non foste (monte gallo – sicily)
Kaos (monte gallo – sicily)
Orbayu (picos de europa – spain)
L’avenir derriere soi (presles – france)
Zahir+ (wendenstoke – switzerland)
Inglourious bastard (gruppo del karwendelgebirge – austria)
Huundert wasser (gruppo del karwendelgebirge – austria)
Woodstock (gruppo del karwendelgebirge – austria)

Iceclimbing
Gondo gully (gole di gondo – svizzera)
Per leila (val riofreddo – alpi giulie)
Eros (val riofreddo – alpi giulie)
The prophet (val riofreddo – alpi giulie)
Leben ist jetzt (val di tures)

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you can buy it from 10th February on Versante Sud web-site
you can buy it from 10th February on Versante Sud web-site

Versante Sud - Sede legale Milano via G. Longhi, 10 - Registro Imprese di Milano n. 13612150156 N. REA MI-1569599 - Cap. Sociale euro 10.000,00