15 Feb New icefall in Central Alps

 
“Tanta roba” ("A lot of stuff") is the last line of mixed climbing  born in Val Febbraro (Italy). Opened on February 5th , 2011 by Floriano Martinaglia and Fabio Elli,  develops independently on three pitches, the first two quite demanding on thin and vertical ice, with an overhanging rock of about 3 meters.

After the long snow slope of the fourth pitch, starts the beautiful blue 80meters dihedral  which is formed every year on the right of the famous "Salto del nido” and that always presents plenty of solid ice.

The dihedral was already climbed  in recent years, even if the information about it are not precise, probably from a slender vertical 20 m free-standing,  this year too, on the left of "Tanta roba”".

The entire climb is  performed on 6 pitches, 250 m, III / 5 R A1. The route was repeated free two days later by Rossano Libera and Pietro Biasini (an alternate lead) and at the top, the duo  followed a steeper line through the walls that border on the left of the big dihedral. Their suggest is: 5/M6 +.
 
Approach:
reach Valle Spluga direction Madesimo, then from the village of Isola di Madesimo, go through the Val Febbraro Madesimo,  until the last bridge. From here, go along the stream for a hundred meters and go up the channel under the rocky ramparts of the route. Attention this year there were large debris of  avalanches … about 90 minutes from the car.

 
Thanks to Stefano Azzali – climbubu.com for murcielago ice axes
Source, photos and topo:  Fabio Elli and Rossano Libèra