03 Nov Amadéus 8c by Pierre Délas
Pierre Délas, editor in chief of excellent website Kairn, has carried out his first 8c, Amadeus, in Grotte de Sabart – Ariège (Pyrenees).
Pierre started to work on the route in summer by very hot temps (in july, 38°) and made around 15 days and 40 tries on the route.
After the summer he trained specifically for the route during 2 months.
Last week, after 2 first days very freezing, the temps went luckily up to 8° in the cave, making perfect conditions.
Both Pierre Délas and Remy Bergasse, another talented French climber, were able to send the route.
Amadeus is a very short route, around 15 meters, 25 moves, pure resistance, with a very big overhang, around 50°. Remy has done too another 8c the following day, "Talisman" 40 meters, at Génat.
He is known for being in the past in French lead team and for his brilliant first ascent, on 2008 Sept, of Toît d’ Orsay (Orsay roof in Paris surburb), 8C link (7C+ to a 8B+ boulder).
Video of Amadeus is coming, stay tuned!
Ph: Phil Bence / Explos www.explos.fr

