19 Feb Cerro Torre by fair means?

 
Since two saisons the web is rocked by controversy relating to the manner in which climber David Lama from Austria try to free-climbing the Maestri route (VI 5.10 A2, 900m, Alimonta-Angeli- Baldessarri-Claus-Maestri, 1970) on the SE ridge of Cerro Torre.
Last year his team had added a few dozen bolts in some places, causing the resentful reaction of the mountaineering world. 
One of the latest news published on the site pataclimb.com  by the famous mountaineer Rolando Garibotti climbing, is the ascent of the same Cerro Torre’ SE ridge by the team of the Canadian Chris Geisler and Jason Kruk: the two, in recent days, came a whisker away from success, without using a single bolt of Maestri for progression, up to about 40 meters from the end of the Headwall, after which there is only the ice mushroom. Failed to complete their challenge, but it’s a great result in every case. 
  
Before of the Canadians,  in 1999 Ermanno Salvaterra and Mauro Mabboni were thinking about this important goal,  by opening a variant of the compressor route
But it was in 2007 that there is a big step forward, with Americans Zach Smith and Josh Wharton, who climb the Salvaterra / Mabboni, then inaugurate a new itinerary  that lends itself well to be free climbed and which differs  a lot from Maestri route.
 
The two arrive up to the top of the first pitch  of the Headwall and 4 from the end, without using even a bolt  of the compressor route; they reached the top of the route, but began clipping bolts in the final four pitches due to weather complications.
For the record, Smith and Wharton had proposed to reduce the bolts on Maestri line, generating very strong contrasts in the community of climbers.
read more : Pataclimb