15 Mar Piantobaldo new line on Orobic Alps
On March, 11th Yuri Parimbelli, Tito Arosio and Ennio Spiranelli has managed the first ascent of a beautiful line of mix climbing on the NW wall of the western Presolana on Orobic Alps .
The route was named Piantobaldo in memory of the late Roby Piantoni, because with this strange name Bruno Tassi "Camoss" called the mountain guide from Bergamo. A nice way to remember them both.
It ‘s a great itinerary not only for the length and technical difficulty, but for the elegance of the line that draws on the rough skin of the Orobians’ queen and for the clean style adopted by the climbing team.
Ennio Spiranelli opened 3 more new routeson NW Presolana: on October 1985 GAN, on February 1990 Orobic Ice and September 2006 In cammino con Marco e Cornelio.
Piantobaldo: WI 4 M7 A1 600m.
1. 70°
2. 80° 3+
3. Traverse 40m,
4. Traverse 40m,
5. M4/5 WI3,
6. M6 WI4/5,
7. M7 WI4 R; on the left of the icefall; M7 WI3
8. A1 M6 WI4
9. 60°
10. 50°
11. 50°
12. 80°
13. 70 °
14. Cornice
Date of the ascent 11th March 2011
Yuri Parimbelli Alpine Guide.
Tito Arosio
Ennio Spiranelli CAAI
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