07 Jun News from Slovenia

About a month ago, Slovenian climber Luka Zazvonil have sent a new extremely overhaning  route in Kotečnik, second biggest Slovenian crag. It is more than 70 moves long  and it is almost horizontal.
 It starts in the cave with many similar but shorter routes and leads on the roof and finally finishes on overhang with small holds.
 
Luka has climbed many 8c and some 8c+ mostly in Mišja peč but this last climb he found it much harder so he rated the route at at least 8c+ if not 9a. 
 
The name of the route is Miza za šest (Table for Six).
 
Few days ago, not yet 15 years young gun Tim Unuk have sent his first 8c. He managed to climb Strelovod (8c) a route in Mišja peč.  Not much older Domen Škofic (17) succeeded in Sanjski par (not with extension) also in Mišja peč.
 
This shorter version of the route was rated at 8c but the mushroom-like stalactite broke down and now Domen now suggested an 8c+. It will interesting to see how much harder will be the extension of Sanjski par which was originaly rated at 9a. 
 
About Sanjski par extension, we recall that Polish Lukasz Dudek (1983) sent it on 2009 Nov: it’s a 40 moves route, 20 of the original Sanjski par (8c) and 20 moves more, on the roof of the cave. It is an endurance and powerful route, without good rests.
 
Uros Perko on 2003 made the first redpoint and suggested  grade 9a, then it  was repeated by Tomáš Mrázek, Adam Ondra and Matej Sova.
 
Dudek managed the first redpoint ascent of Sanjski par extension after the break of a hold.
 

 
Source and photos: Urban Golob