29 Dec Niccolò Ceria’s 2012
Niccolò Ceria, 20 years old, started climbing in 2000, but only in 2009 he started focusing on bouldering. He is not harvesting the results of six months dedicated to climbing, which brought him many satisfactions, including the 5th RP of Nicole’s Entlinge, in Murgtal.
Niccolò, what is Entlinge for you?
I consider it the synthesis of my 2012. It’s the most important boulder of the season, for me. I had wanted to see it and try it for three years or more. Fortunately it’s in a place that’s far from the most crowded areas and even if it s close to the road, it is hidden in the woods. The first time I tried it, at the end of September, i felt it was doable and I managed to do all the moves except for one. I was really psyched because the line was even more stunning than I’d expected from the videos. Also, to be in a new place that is not described in detail by any guidebook was a big stimulus. I find research motivating, a part of the activity itself. Everything in the line is special, from the rock, which was new to me, to the sequence. The day I sent the boulder was special, too, since we did the round trip from Biella during the same day, driving almost nine hours. It was risky, but it worked out, and I was well compensated.
Tell us about your progression in 2012
It has been a year of changes. I was attending my last year in high school, and after a week spent in Fontainebleau I decided that I was going to devote a period of my life to bouldering, once completed my degree. I plunged into study, and in July I was free to focus on training and climbing. I could feel that I had improved in the period between september and october, when I climbed in Vallese and I made the 5th RP of Entlinge, in Murgtal. After spending one week in Bleau, in autumn, I felt tired, and went back to training. For sure in 2012 I have had my highs and my lows, but it’s positive that I managed to climb wonderful lines, like T-rex, Imothep, Scarred For Life, Permanent Midnight, Entlinge. I am finally trying to follow my passion, as I hoped, and probably that’s what I’ll do in 2013, too, thanks to my family that supports me, morally and economically.
What is your target for 2013? Have you already tried some 8C, 8C+?
No, I have never tried anything that hard, except for Big Paw, if it’s 8C as they say, or The Story of Two Worlds, in Cresciano. I would love to climb one, but my priority for 2013 is to visit new places, not focusing necessarily on the hardest grades. I would like to spend some time in Vastervik, Mantatal, Zillertal and Prilep. I would also love to open some new lines in Valle d’Aosta, there’s a big potential for that, and obviously complete some of the boulders that I haven’t sent yet, like Big Paw.
What do you think about grades? Do you think they are inflated? Or that there’s a trend towards downgrading?
Bouldering grades are an enigma. For sure there is no objective solution, valid for all of us. Sincerely I am not that interested in the grade, we all know there is more to it than grades in bouldering and more generally in climbing. Sometimes you stumble upon a line that’s overrated, and in that case I think it’s correct to express your personal opinion, maybe even downgrade them, explaining the difference in the beta. But when I perceive a half grade difference, personally I don’t feel it necessary to correct it, since these small differences may be due to different morphologies and abilities, making it utterly subjective. For this reason I find it really stupid to base outdoor climbing on a “numerical” or competitive approach, even if there are people that prefer to do that.
Is there a difference between old school and current grades?
It depends from the area. Generally old-school grades are more stiff. Grades are mostly correct in Fontainebleau, in the Peak District or in Cresciano, whereas in some newer areas, like Brione or Magic Wood, they tend to be softer, and that is why I think it’s right to give my opinion. The difference decreases on lines 8B and harder.
Who is currently the best boulderer, in your opinion?
It’s hard to say. Movements are so varied, it’s too subjective to generalize. Everyone has its strengths, and will be stronger than others on some styles. We all know the best, without mentioning them. But there are also a lot of unknown climbers who are extremely strong and nevertheless don’t make the headlines. There have been sends, or first ascents, that have not been reported, as if the climbing community only had eyes for the names that everybody know.
Do you think you could be a professional climber? Would you like to be a professional climber?
For sure I’d love to, but I don’t think I will be able to, although
