27 Jan Interview with Riccardo Scarian
by Elena Corriero
Recently, Riccardo “Sky” Scarian sent Child in Time, 8c+ in Fonzaso, Italy. Scarian, who is an Alpine Guide and who started his climbing career in the ‘80s, boasts in his climbing resumé routes up to 9a and various 8c+. His last performance is an opportunity to discuss about his passion for climbing and about the relationship between the “old” and the “new” generation.
Child in time: you said it’s great to be “children in time”. What do you mean? Do you still feel like a child?
To say that it’s great to be “children in time” means that 30 years have gone by, and time flies relentlessly… But the enthusiasm I feel when I climb has not changed with time, I feel as I felt back then, a 15-year old kid! I often climb with kids who could be my children, but I feel one of them rather than their father!
8c+: how do you feel now, sending such a hard route?
The grade does not mean much, considering that the best climbers now climb 8c+ on-sight. But it means a lot personally, it is fantastic after all these years to be motivated and to be able to push one’s limits, coping also with your private life, which has changed a lot since the times when I was a climber full time!
Is grade important for you?
I would lie if I said it’s not important, but it’s more a stimulus to be motivated and to help me in keeping a certain order in everyday’s life. In other words, is you want to keep your level, you cannot let it go badly, as I am often tempted to do.
How do you train?
Unfortunately, not as I used to train when I was younger, for various reasons: free time, family, work. I am no longer able to plan a training schedule that I can follow precisely, following a defined periodization. I live by the day, I try to climb as much as I can and to exercise for strength at least once a week, sometimes I manage to do some micro-cicles for strength, but it is very rare. Besides… to train means hard work, and maybe I am no longer willing to do that, I prefer to climb!
Do you feel any limits determined by age?
Well, I still don’t feel an old fogey! I can feel a small difference with respect to 15 years ago, but not so bug and I am sure it depends on the fact that I train less than before. For sure, recovery is slower, and maybe I can fell something lacking in the dynamic moves, the dynos where I once had a catlike agility. Another limit relates to the fact that being unable to plan, I also do not know when my peak will be; I have to rely completely on sensations, on your body signals. The ability to do so has dramatically improved over the years, though.
What are your goals for the future?
In the short term my goal is to send two routes I nearly missed some years ago… and one around the grade 9! Then mountain… there is so much to do there… Travelling, I’d love to go back to Yosemite and go to Patagonia. Bottom line, to climb!
Do you think you’ll ever stop climbing? Have you ever had a period when you were removed from climbing?
No! Only last year, I took some distance due to two accidents, one of which could have turned out a tragedy, but it is only a bad memory right now.
Do you feel part of an “old” generation?
Not really, I started with the “old” generation back in the ‘80s, but I went on, adapting to the developments of the sport, the good and the bad ones. Some things were better then, some are better now!
So what is your opinion on the “new” generation and the current development of the sport?
I have a positive opinion, climbers are more open, they socialize more; I think people are less envious, more honest and open to confrontation. I think climbing is on the good track.
