27 Sep Barbara Zangerl, Trilogy and more
This is an abstract of a complete interview whit Barbara that will be published on the next number uf Up Magazine (February 2014). Babsi completed the famaous Trilogy of the Alps but she is also a strong boulder woman and naturally sport climber. She’s one of the most polyvalent climber in the world but also a sociable, smiling and educated girl.
We met her also at Melloblocco during realization of a video. Here, we decided to speak whit her about climbing and more.
INTERVIEW: BARBARA ZANGERL
by Stefano Michelin
First, congratulations for the Trilogy. Be sincere: how long did you think of this project?
At the beginning I only wanted to try Silbergeier. Than I got knocked out because of injury. The year after I searched for a project which had the same style of climbing, End of Silence. After two years break from Silbergeier, I was soooo motivated to go back for trying this masterpiece of Beat Kammerlander again…..I did it….and finally I wanted to finish the Trilogy. But I had a really big respect of Kaisers. At this time I couldn’t imagine to climb Kaisers neue Kleider finally.
What are the common elements of the routes? And the differences?
Silbergeier and EOS are more technical routes and also mentally more challenging. And Kaisers neue Kleider felt harder and more athletic climb, some pitches are really steep and powerful. But besides of the easier pitches the runouts are not so big compared to the other routes of the Trilogy. Every route was very special and a big challenge for me and offered me a great adventure. The most beautiful pitches I found in Silbergeier but also in the other two routes….there were some masterpiece-pitches.
Where did you find the greatest difficulties? And emotions??
The biggest fight I had on Kaisers neue Kleider. All the pitches before the 8. I did on my first try. But for the 8 pitch i needed 7 attempts to redpoint it. That was mentally a horror trip. Also in EOS i had some falls and I was until the end not sure if I will send it this day. Silbergeier went smothly….maybe because i didn’t have planned a real try at this day (no pressure).
A lot of your realizations (not all naturally) are close enough to your hometown, isn’t it? I read somithing about one trip in Yosemite whit Hansjorg Auer but when we’ll see Barbara in Chile, China, Brazil, Baffin for example.
Yes, most of my goals in climbing were near my home until now. But for sure I have plans to travel more and visiting new places, that makes climbing more colorful and also seeing new places meeting different cultures is an inspiring part of travelling. Also Patagonia, Chile or Madagaskar are places I want to go. But when I am visiting new places, where I never have been before I don’t want to focus just on one route. I like to climb as much as possible and try different routes.
