25 Feb new crag in San Vito Lo Capo: Il Castello – Salinella

The area of San Vito Lo Capo – Custonaci (TP) proves to be one of the fastest developing climbing spot in the whole Mediterranean: more than 200 new routes have been equipped over the last 12 months.
30 years have passed since the first routes by Marco Bonamini and Alessandro Gogna, less than 10 since the first edition of the renowned climbing festival, just a few months since the first 9a of Southern Italy, signed and sent by Adam Ondra… and here it comes the route n. 1.000, in the new sector "Il Castello".
The route setting is relentless: Daniele Arena and Ivan Savoi are working on a new sector just above Makari, counting two dozens of routes on an – need to say? – excellent rock.

Many climbers have already tested the outstanding limestone of San Vito, counting more than 40 sectors hosting hounderds of single-pitch routes and dozens multi-picthes, and a huge potential to be discovered. Last year alone, more than 100 new routes have been equipped by Italian, Austrian, German and British climbers. And, still more important, especially for the locals who could be regarded as the "custodians" of the area heritage, this winter some renovation works have involved the older routes, or those in need of a restyling – proving a particular focus on climbers’ safety.

This project has been funded by the township, the publishing company Versante Sud – through its project Books for Bolts, the local tourism operators, the main camping, El Bahira and La Pineta, and has been carried out by the sport association ASD Rocce di Sicilia, in partnership with the newborn YMCA Climbing House San Vito Lo Capo, which has already become the meeting point for climbers visiting San Vito.

A wide selection of guidebooks help the climber to explore the area. Just to quote a few:
– "Di Roccia Di Sole", Versante Sud: reviewing the whole Sicily, it’s published in three fully translated edition (Italian, English, German). It’s been realized by local climbers, in compliance with the publishing company principles; 2% of the proceeds from the book sales are allocated to the project Books for Bolts.
– San Vito Lo Capo Climbing Map: a compact, inexpensive map, by Versante Sud. The new edition will be presented at the forecoming festival. As for the book, part of the proceeds will be allocated to Book for Bolts.
– KLetterführer Sizilien – Sicily Rock, published by Kletterarena, compiled by German climbers;
– Sportclimbing in Italy – Sicilia San Vito Lo Capo Sizilien, compiled by Sudtirol climbers, covering San Vito Lo Capo area, with Italian and German version in a single volume.

And now, here’s some detail of the new sector, containing the route number 1.000:

*IL CASTELLO*
New sector along Salinella cliff. Equipped by Joseph Gstottenmair.
It’s located between "Portella delle Vacche" and "Bunker" sectors, sharing the same approach reaching a small cave surrounded by a dry-stone wall. Facing west, it features routes 15-20 mt hihg. Red limestone; routes requiring athletic moves, yet not too difficult.

*1 BUON VIAGGIO 5b
2 USA IL DITO 6a
3 COLPO DI VENTO 6a
4 IL NASO 6b
5 NINA G 6a+
6 PIU’ FACILE 5b
7 OPTIMIST 6b
8 PESSIMIST 6b+
9 IL DISSOLUTO 6c
10 KRECHSPUR 6b*