22 Apr The incredible resources of Val Masino and Val di Mello
The area of Val Masino and Val di Mello is a location among the most popular of Italy from all outdoor enthusiasts: climbers, mountaineers, hikers. This area is increasingly known and appreciated. This was the forge of the Italian boulder and today is a destination known around the world thanks to a huge amount of stones that today, after thirty years of "bouldering", is still largely undiscovered. On the eve of Melloblocco that has opened the door to the world, we spoke with Andrea Pavan, author of the guide of the boulder area that just the next Melloblocco will be present the new edition, to know how many lines can still be born here.
Just to give us an idea, how years go in Valle bouldering? When did you start?
I started climbing in ’96 but before I climbed the rocks of the Val Masino and Selvapiana, more for fun than anything else. In the late 90s there were few people in the Valley, right Ricky Colombo, Aldo Rovelli, Simone Pedeferri, Luca Maspes and some other and the blocks were not many. I guess you could count up to 500 lines, the most logical, that had to be not too high and with a base quite handy because there weren’t the crashes of today. In recent years, Rudi Colli has made a major contribution.
Have you followed the footsteps of the climbers of the Valley?
Ivan Guerini was the first climber of the boulder area. The areas of Remenno or Visido were the first taken into consideration because there where the need of a base already naturally suited to cushion falls.
Which was the spirit of bouldering?
It was not yet an end in itself but a side of climbing. When the weather wasn’t good enought to climb a route or in the end of the day we tried a block. It was a game. However, it was already up to 7c-8a. A game challenging enough …
Do you think that has changed the "Valley" from the 90s to today?
Two things are pretty obvious to me. The first is that the focus has shifted, it has also changed the general interest from the route of the Val di Mello to the bouldering Remenno, Visido and other low areas. Second, you must consider the flow of people, which was previously only in summer and today almost all year. All that’s not a bad thing, it is just a change of interest, to live the Valley.
Do you work for years on the guide, give us some numbers: how many boulders are in the boulder area of Mello and Masino?
Well, I say only two words: growing almost exponentially. In 2008 there were about 1050 problems; in 2009 over 1600 and now we are in 2250 with a huge potential yet.
Do you mean that there is still much to do?
Much? In areas of the valley, which are attended by more than 30 years, we are perhaps in half of the work. Maybe we cleaned the 5% or 10% not more …
Has the boulder brought tourism in the area?
From the first Melloblocco forward the number of people who attended the valley has increased. Consider also the appearance of lines now are fine traced, there are outlets clean, the paths are kept clear by climbers. Maybe you can find the tape or cigarette butts when it needs little or nothing to keep cleaner.
Approaches Melloblocco, what do you recommends to climbers?
Have fun and respect the place and the people who live there. Keep clean. I do not say to collect the garbage of others but if you find a bottle accidentally fall in the meadow, not to pretend not to see it but to pick it up and throw it. It takes little to leave the Valley as we found on our arrival.
There will be surprises?
There will be a novelty in the historic map: in the back will be marked by a path to walk up from the Centro Multifunzionale in the heart of the Val di Mello where you will go next to some historical block; a sort of "thematic" bouldering path. We are sure it will become a sort of "classic" here in the Valley.
Andrea Pavan, born in 1978, is a geologist and he is part of Ragni di Lecco. He is the author for years for Versante Sud and of the various editions of the guide MELLO BOULDER. During the next MELLOBLOCCO he will present the new edition:
– Thursday, April 28, at 18.15, at Centro Multifunzionale.
– Saturday, May 2, at 18.15, stand Decathlon
Interview by Stefano Michelin
