21 May Climbing: obsession or motivation?
Where does the pleasure and starts the duty? Where the passion ends and begins an obsession? What is left of the free climbing where it indicates only one way to climb but also, above all, a way of interpreting and living the climbing? Climbing means freedom even in situations like these? Complex questions to be addressed, subjective and that may trigger quickly and easily discontent but that deserve to be told.
Luzan Matyas, Romanian climber born in 1989, is devoting his life to a strike, the legendary Action Direct. Over the last 14 months, Lukas has supported 300 specific training, which translated means more or less every other day and day out for more than a year. His training sessions are based on the pangullich and circuits at his gym, the One Move Climbing Gym in Timisoara, with exact replicas the various sequences of Gullich route.
The program for the summer of Luzan, who he is up to 8b (last July), includes sessions with overload to increase strength and resistance to the force after he spent the first 4 months to find the correct form to solve on Panel all the steps.
On 8a.nu, Luzan writes: "I am fully aware that I am training FOR Action Direct and that I might fall on an 8a a few times the next day. Walking the fine line between maximum training effort and catastrophic tendon injury is equally challenging. I like this kind of constant awareness but in the end it is the instinct that tells me where the line goes.
I just want to climb Action because Wolfgang is one of my heroes and AD looks amazing, and more, I think it is possible to climb such a hard 9a while having a full time job. I also think that every person has a style, a type of route where he/she excels at, and if he/she discovers what style this is, and he/she really likes it, then yes, 8b to 9a is possible. I believe this deeply. If I had the courage sooner I might have tried AD even before climbing 8b.
There is no bigger source of motivation than challenging what you like. I tend to operate on a whole different level when I enjoy something, I lose sight of the difficulty somewhere."
Some may see in Luzan an obsession, other great reasons. What is certain is that it does not lack the courage or the perseverance to carry on his project. We believe that climbing can be in some way a mirror of life and then, no matter how it turns out, an example of how a dream, whatever it is, is the engine of our actions beyond the fatigue, the commitments, the laziness, mental limits.
Cultivate dreams then, they will keep us alive.
www.luzanmatyas.blogspot.ro
Stefano Michelin
