26 May The meaning of a grade

There is the story of a strike and there is the grade of a route and sometimes, not always, have equal weight and thickness. That’s certainly the case of Direct Action, rose in 1991 by Wolfgang Gullich and we dealt with recently by attempts of Luzan Matyas, but also of To Tu Jeste nebylo, in the valley of Elba, freed by Adam Ondra more than twenty years later.

Action is the first 9a of the story and To you the first 9a bolted from below, by Ondra Benes, and if they are not these wonderful stories we do not know what they may be.

The german climber Felix Neumärker has both ascents in recent days, once again demonstrating a sensitivity and accuracy in the selection of routes that is not all, in addition to fingers really tightening.

Are less than twenty climbs of Direct Action since it’s opening while it is only the third ascent of To Tu Jeste nebylo that after the first ascent of Adam saw only Alex Megos as a repeater.

source and photo Frank Kretschmann – www.unst.de