19 Jun Kosmas, Greece, new crag
Unlike the usual climbing trips, this February Bernie and I aimed to establish a new climbing crag at Kosmas nearby Leonidio. During the trip we had confronted some troubles as a coldness arrived and made us come back again in May.
The whole trip was something special especially when we searched for the unknown way to the crag for the first time. In winter we hiked up through snow and ice and in spring we had to walk carefully to avoid stepping on a snake in the thicket. Indeed, I was closely to tread on one, but recognised it shortly before. When we arrived at the crag we looked for the most inspiring climbable lines on the wall. While Bernie had already gained some bolting experiences, I was excited to set some bolts for the first time and create a whole route eventually.
Concerning the bolting "Donkey Kong" will always stay in our memory. Bernie totally run out of energy after he had bolted the 20 meter long roof. It was an honour to get the first ascent of this amazing line, which Bernie had dedicated to me.
It was great and thrilling at the same time to take the first steps in our self-made routes. We tried to find the rhythm of the lines by checking out all its single moves. Surprisingly, we completed all of our 14 routes quite fast. Both, Bernie and I, got seven first ascents each. This varied climbing was so motivating that I did all of the routes in the end.
It was a privilege to give each route a special name. For instance, the route "In memo Martin" and the extension of it "CAC" should remind us on our friend, who had currently died because of cancer. Furthermore, the route "Baum des Lebens" is called this name, because the thick tufa at the beginning and the thin tufas through the top, look like a tree trunk with aster. This is the hardest line in our crag, that I did in a tough battle (of survival).
With these names and the difficult and unconvenient grading we have finished our crag "Nifada". This and further information is now available on our topo.
Angela Eiter
Nifada crag, Kosmas, Greece
Bolted by: Angela Eiter, Bernie Ruech, 2015
Altitude: 800 meters
Best period: fall and spring
Approach: drive from Elona to Kosmas. At the 3th loop you can parl. Follow red tickmarks in 20 min to the crag.
1 Igel 15 m 7c
2 Sonic 15 m 7a
3 Der Igel schlägt zurück 20 m 7c+
4 Stelli Mantrisch 15 m 7b
5 Baumkraxler L1 15 m 8a
Baum des Lebens L2 25 m 8c/+
6 In Memo Martin L1 15 m 7a+/b
CAC L2 25 m 8a+
7 Wings for Life 30 m 8b
8 Angi Orangi L1 15 m 7a+ L2 30 m8a+
9 Donkey Kong JuniorL1 25 m 8a
Donkey Kong L2 30 m 8b/+
10 Rainbow Warrier 25 m 8c
11 K3 Climbing 15 m 7c+
12 First Class 15 m 8a
13 Bergsteigerkante L1 10 m 8a L2 20 m 8b+
14 Bernie Musculus 15 m 8a

