12 Aug Satifaction, new route on the G1 for Marek Holecek and Zdenek Hák

Czech climbers Marek Holecek and Zdenek Hák, after several attempts, have opened a new alpine way on Gasherbrum I, Karakorum. This is Satisfaction, in memory of his friend and companion Zdeněk Hrubý.

By the end of July, Marek Holecek and Zdenek Hák, in six days, opened Satisfaction, not without a variety of issues: at the base camp, the two discovered that another rope from Ukraine was there for their own goal.

They left the base camp the same, July 24. The first two days Marek and Zdenek arrived up to 7,400 feet under an unexpected snowfall. While their goal was to get to 7,900 in just one other day, they took three days to reach that altitude, meeting a hostile land and conditions. A few meters from the summit, they were then forced into a bivy.

Although the unexpected Marek and Zdenek reached the peak on 30 July, opening the “Satisfaction” (ED + (M7, WI5 +) 70 °) climbing in 6 days (8 with descent) and absolutely Alpine style!

The route was dedicated to Zdeněk Hrubý, who died in 2013 during an opening attempt with Marek Holeček.