Climbing news from the Bec di Roci Ruta - Up-Climbing

Climbing news from the Bec di Roci Ruta









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The Bec di Roci Ruta is a pillar of good granite situated on a  sunny terrace in the val Grande di Lanzo, just outside Turin, with many historical and modern climbs. Elio Bonfanti, a very active Piemontese climber, together with a few friends, is giving  a makeover to the first bolted routes opened in the 1990’s. Some new routes have also been added.
 
Here’s his report.
 
The Lanzo valleys are tucked away between the famous valleys from the Winter Olympics Val di Susa and valle dell’ Orco (valle dell’Orco with the Sergent and Caporal and the Parco del Gran Paradiso). These valleys, where time seems to have stood still, have not been developed for climbing as much as other nearby valleys. The interesting crags are few and the best, such as the vallone di Sea, are in the shade …
 
But not all of them. When you enter the Val grande and pass Cantoira with the south-facing Rocca di Lities above, in the distance you see the Bec di Roci Ruta. Seen from Pialpetta or from the walls of the “Bec di Mea” it sticks out like a fine monolith. But don’t let neither appearances nor the name fool you. Roci Ruta in the local dialect means “roccia rotta”, broken rocks, but we’re not talking about a heap of rubble, but rather large-grained granitoid gneiss articulated in corners, slabs and cracks. Not a monolith, then, but a satisfying microcosm of rocks for even the most sophisticated tastes.
 
Between the end of the 80’s and the start of the 90’s, a dozen new routes were climbed here, plus one by Alberto Re and another one by non other than Giampiero Motti. The cracks often needed a lot of cleaning but by the middle of the 90’s this crag became one of the valley’s most popular. But then the old fixed gear started to put off visitors, and the vegetation started to grow back.
 
The crag  is in a birch and larch wood and requires 30’ of approach walk. You can climb here almost all year round. Considering that there are routes for all levels, we decided to give the crag a face-lift. We rebolted some old routes with 10mm stainless steel bolts and bolted some new single pitch routes, so that you now have routes from 25 to 180m, with difficulties from 4b to 7a+. The climbing varies from technical quartz walls to cracks to corners for bridging, so that a day at Ruci Ruta is never boring.
 
The routes are bolted with stainless steel bolts, though where indicated you need to use Friends up to BD 3 as well. The fixed gear on the routes not yet rebolted is still OK so these routes can be climbed even before they too are rebolted.
 
The abseil descent from the summit is set up for 30m abseils and for all the routes here a single 70m rope or two 50m ropes are sufficient. Note that in some of the previous articles on the crag the information isn’t exact and errors are corrected here.
  
Sleeping/eating :
 
Trattoria da Cesarin : Frazione Breno di Groscavallo Tel +39 0123506720
 
Albergo Savoia : Forno Alpi Graie Tel +39 0123.81042/81184
 
Posto Tappa GTA di Pialpetta: Albergo Setugrino Tel +39 0123 81 016
 
Guides/descriptions: Le stagioni della Pietra, the Alp guides “ Falesie 1”
 
Approach:
 
From the Turin tangenziale (ring road) head for the Valli di Lanzo passing Venaria reale and continuing towards the valli di Lanzo on the SP 1 then the SP 33. Go through Pialpetta, turn right towards Rivotti (sign). At the first turning right again towards Alboni. About 65 km from Turin. From the piano degli Alboni 1375 m follow for a few metres a little road which, after a wash-trough, turns left towards a renovated mountain hut (baita) and which becomes a path which climbs up by the baita. You reach the wall in 35 minutes, at route n° 11 from where if you traverse left under the base of the crag you arrive at route n° 8 (white arrow). Still further left and you reach the foot of the rocks separated from the main structure. Il paradiso è di Pochi has a green arrow at the start.
 
 LIST OF ROUTES
 
 
1. IL PARADISO E’ DI POCHI : 7 pitches max 6a+ ( you can combine pitches 4 and 5) friends up to BD 3 useful if you don’t want to use the bolts on pitch 5, otherwise up to BD 2 and use the bolts in place. Stainless steel 10mm bolts. Diff obl. ( 6a ).
 
2. SECONDA STELLA A SINISTRA E VARIANTE: 2 pitches ( ONLY trad 6a ) BD Friends up to 4 .
 
3. UNA FAVOLA PER DINDA: 6 pitches (max 6c) 10mm bolts. Diff obl. ( 6b ).
 
4. BEPPONE DOCET : 3 pitches (max 7a ) 10mm bolts. Diff obl. ( 6a+).
 
5. IL TEMPO DI MUDJAKEWIS : 2 pitches. Pitch 1 you can climb in its own right 35m ( max 6c ) Pitch 2 ( 6b ). Stainless steel 10mm bolts. Diff obl. ( 6b ).
 
6. FESSURA RE : 2 pitches ( max 6a+ ) 8mm bolts 

7. BASE JUMP ( white arrow at the base) : 2 pitches. Pitch 1 you can climb in its own right 35m ( max 6b ) L2 ( max 6c ). Stainless steel 10mm bolts. Diff obl. ( 6a+ ).
 
8. LO SPIGOLO DEL VENTO DI TRANQUILLITA’ LONTANE : 2 pitches (max 6b+) Friends up to 2 useful. Stainless steel 10mm bolts. Diff obl. ( 6a+)
 
9. FISSURE DU POLPETTON : Single pitch 20m (max 6a+) friends up to  3. 10 mm
 bolts
 
10. FESSURA MANERA : Single pitch 25m ( max 7a ) 10mm bolts
 
11. COSI’ NON FAN TUTTI : 6 pitches (max 7a ) 10mm bolts
 
12. SOLI NEL SOLE : 4 pitches ( max 6a+) 10mm bolts. Diff obl. ( 6a )
 
13. SOLITUDINE DEI NUMERI PRIMI: Single pitch 25m ( max 6a+) Stainless steel 10mm bolts. Diff obl. ( 6a ).
 
14. MONTURA PEOPLE : Single pitch 25m ( max 6c ) Stainless steel 10mm bolts. Diff obl. ( 6a+ ).
 
15. PER UN PUGNO DI PIXEL : Single pitch 25m ( 7a ) Stainless steel 10mm bolts. Diff obl. ( 6b+ ).
 
16. LA CURA DEL PADRE: Single pitch 35m ( max 6b ) Stainless steel 10mm bolts. Diff obl. ( 6a+ ).

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