SCARPA: INSTINCT

Instinct Laces Test: balanced and multi-purpose

07 August 2018
A shoe that goes well with everything, with the right balance between rigidity and sensitivity, and a lacing closure that hugs your foot.

I do not hide it, this shoe has marked a big change in my choice of climbing shoes. The Instinct laces of SCARPA have definitely replaced the old shoes, that have accompanied my climbing for the last five years.

It was a love at first sight. As soon as worn, I felt a sense of comfort, as if the shoe hugged my foot, and the five-piece internal seam system makes it fit the foot, eliminating annoying seams in the area of ​​the fingers. Even the heel, which for me is always a crucial point in the shoe, fits perfectly with no air pockets. At first glance it would come to take them smaller, following the usual mantra that for years has broken my feet: "the first days you have to suffer, which then yield at least one number".

But no! Tired of suffering I listened to the voices that whispered: the shoes should be bought comfortable, (I took a number less, when I usually took 2-2.5 numbers less). I do not regret it at three points! In fact, the Instinct laces is a shoe that improves over time, adapting to the foot from the first fit and even improving after the first resoling. It takes the shape of the foot without losing its support and flexibility, thanks to the PU side cage and the Bi-Tension system.

A shoe that supports without being too stiff, arched but not too aggressive, comfortable but does not lose in performance. Of course, it is not my first choice shoe for shots with bound smalmi, or the overhangs that require great sensitivity in the feet, but it is certainly a shoe that gives security, ideal for shooting at sight or to take on the road when you do not always know exactly what kind of rock or supports you will have to face.

To this day I have always a pair of Instinct laces in the backpack, it is simply an excellent shoe that goes well for everything and on any type of rock: from limestone to holes finalese, to granite with Ossolano fissures, passing through the gneiss to notches of Ticino. Maybe not ideal for the blocks and the gym, given the laces but still a real safety at the crag.

Technical data

  • Upper: Microfiber
  • Midsole: Flexan 1mm
  • Sole: XS EDGE 3.5 mm
  • Form: FV
  • Tensioning: Bi-Tension system
  • Sizes: 34 - 45 (with ½ sizes)
  • Weight: 220g (½ pair size 40)

Francesco Bassetti

Train 740x195

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