01 Apr 9a OS, Ondra’s comment
Impossible not to ask Adam what he thought when he knew that Alexander Megos had onsighted a 9a.
With his typical objectivity, he gives his point of view on the performance of Alexander Megos:
"Obviously when I first read this news on 8a website, I stood still for a moment, I couldn’t believe it. But thinking for a moment, I knew that it must have been true. Al l I can say that Alex’s performance is truly unique and stands out. He chose the right route (one of few routes that the world has to offer) and he just went for it.
With a perfect mindset, he made everything perfectly and clipped the chains what is probably (in terms of grade for sure) the hardest onsight ever! It is not only question of luck (even though it plays an important role), you definitely have to have the level and you have to MASTER the onsight style. Additionally, what a discipline he hadn’t seen any video of this route (Progression as Chris is trying Golpe de Estado for example), or maybe he is just not interested in watching videos at all.
In terms of grade, no matter what it is, it seemed hard to me. When I did it back in 2007 a couple of tries, it seemed as soft 8c+ to me. But shortly after Chris Sharma made the first ascent of Golpe de Estado, which shares the second half of the route, the hold broke in bouldery sequence just above the two routes join. I have never climbed the Estado Critico after break, but it seemed tome as it could have made it a notch harder to break the 9a barrier. For Golpe de Estado though, it didn’t make any difference, or by the most making it from soft 9b to normal 9b."

