12 Jun 9a+ by Ondra
<!–
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
{mso-style-parent:"";
margin:0cm;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";}
@page Section1
{size:612.0pt 792.0pt;
margin:70.85pt 2.0cm 2.0cm 2.0cm;
mso-header-margin:36.0pt;
mso-footer-margin:36.0pt;
mso-paper-source:0;}
div.Section1
{page:Section1;}
–>
Adam Ondra has done the first repetition of Markus Bock’s Corona, 9a+ in Frankenjura.
He did it in just 8 attempt.
The route starts up the 1984 8c testpiece "Burn 4 U" before breaking off right up a severe set of sharp edges and pockets.
<!–
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
{mso-style-parent:"";
margin:0cm;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:"Times New Roman";
mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";}
@page Section1
{size:595.3pt 841.9pt;
margin:70.85pt 2.0cm 2.0cm 2.0cm;
mso-header-margin:35.4pt;
mso-footer-margin:35.4pt;
mso-paper-source:0;}
div.Section1
{page:Section1;}
–>
The route has no rest and 3 sections:
– around 10 easier moves in the grade 7a
– 6 moves 8b bloc
– 15 moves 8b route
Bock describes the ascent as follows: "This is definitely the hardest route I’ve ever climbed and at the same time one of the best lines in the Frankenjura. I think that the route could be harder than Action Directe.”