Adam Ondra and Chris Sharma at Melloblocco - Up-Climbing

Adam Ondra and Chris Sharma at Melloblocco

This edition of Melloblocco will be special, indeed. Bigger numbers, and bigger names, starting from the champions: above all, Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra will rocket sky-high the level of the competition. And then, here we come! The "ordinary" climbers. Today, more than 2,200 people has already registered: in the record edition of 2009, when Melloblocco was attended by more than 2000 climbers, at this stage the pre-registrations were 500 less.
We expect another record edition, but don’t worry: there will be no overcrowding. Val Masino is huge, and the last boulder census counted more than 2,000 different problems.

Are you craving to know where the top-secret boulders, which will stage the stellar competition, are?

Here’s a tip-off…  Pesgunfi and Val Arcanzolo area.
Under the Pesgunfi wall there’s a wonderful wood of monumental firs, dotted with high boulders leaning on the undergrowth. Val Arcanzolo is a tributary branch of Val di Mello. The new area is just at the beginning of the path leading to the higher part of Val Arcanzolo, which has been recently declared Integral Reserve zone within the wider Natural Reserve of Val di Mello.
After a thorough effort of cleaning and tracing, new problems have been created on boulders spread in the areas already known, such as Bagni di Masino, Val di Mello and San Martino (behind the sport centre).
Melloblocco 2011 will give birth to more than 130 brand new problems. 16 of them have been chosen for the official competition: 8 for women and 8 for men, with the same competition rules – as usual for Melloblocco.
The problems are wonderful: long and exciting lines, from 12 to 30 moves!

As for the other news…
the headquarter, in the premises of Centro Polifunzionale della Montagna, has doubled its size, including the garden and the area beneath, already partially employed in 2010, near Sasso di Tarzan. That means more exhibitors, more room, more musice, more shows… more fun for the participants.

the Village will present many new proposals from media and specialized companies, but also from NGOs and charities, such as the Association for Disabled people of Morbegno, with its programme "Arrampi-abile", and ADMO, the Italian Association of Bone Marrow Donors: one testimonial of the international network of such association is Adam Ondra himself, who, just turned 18, joined the programme.
on Thursday will be held the qualifications for Dyno-Contest: a qualification measure, will be required to access the quarter-finals on Saturday.
then, a Star Soireé, with an official presentation of the most known climbers who ever took part in Melloblocco… Adam Ondra and Chris Sharma, Barbara Zangerl and Muriel Sarkeny, Stevie Haston and Pietro Dal Prà… and many, many others – followed by a DJ-set till late night.
on Saturday night, the Dyno-contest final, and a preview, in the indoor climbing gym, of several exciting videos … and then, the great Saturday Night party, with live music and DJ set!

Last but not least, a very useful tip, to avoid traffic jams and aiming at respecting the environment: leave your cars parked, and enjoy the valley walking around or taking advantage of the free bus shuttles.
Nicola Noè

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