08 Oct Alessandro Zeni interview

Alessandro Zeni, 24 years old, lives in Mezzano, a small village near Fiera di Primiero and is a rare climber able to do the routes of Italian best climbers like Maurizio Manolo Zanolla or Riccardo Scarian, those routes where you must have iron fingers and an incredible feet technique. Recently he repeated In Bilico, a 8c opened by Manolo some years ago and never done again after the FA. We start from this to know something more about him.
Tell us something about this last ascent…
Eh, it’s the typical motory rebus Manolo style where isn’t sufficient use small and distant holds but you need the perfect control of your body. There aren’t many boulder sections but is constantly challenging and exhausting. Technique, balance and strong are indispensable to do your work!
You are measuring yourself with these style of routes: rational choice?
Yes, in part rational, in part emotional. First I love this type of ambient and landscape. When you go Val Canali long, you see this incredible rock that intimidates from below. I wanted to see what Manolo did here and I was psyched from the rock, the lines, not only In Bilico, and all the nature around, a spectacular view to Val Canali.
Do you have a specific preparation for these routes?
No, they are only my congenial routes. I was born on them like climber and it’s where I can do all myself. Conversely in the gym I climb above all on the overhangs.
Not technical training?
I think that you can train technique, this type of technique, only climbing a lot on the crag. Train power in the gym is important but for example I’m not strong like other climbers but some time my technique helps me a lot on bouldering competitions. It’s a great aid for me!
Did you bolt some routes also?
Not for the moment. With my friend Riccardo Scarian have some projects but for the future.
What Scarian represents for you?
Sky is a friend now, is my master and when I was young my idol. On the wall of my bedroom, I had a poster with him on Drumtime, an historical route in Fonzaso. I dream to climb that one day! Then, I met Rioccardo a lot of time around but I was too shy to ask something to him. One day, he came to me to propose to climb with him. The dream became reality!
But where stated your climbing passion and why?
When I was a child, with my brothers we played to climb trees! Our playground was all nature around us and more or less at 12 years old I discovered the climbing on the rocks. I was totally in love but my mother was worried for the dangers so I waited till 16. The was my father to inscribe me to have a teacher so I started.
Rock but not only. You participate also to competitions. What do you see for your future?
Naturally I would do some multipitch but for the moment I rest focused on national and international competitions…and a lot of hard routes of course!
Alessandro Zenu must routes
"Drumtime" 8c+ (31/12/2012, Fonzaso), "Diabloluna" 8c (6/1/2013, Fonzaso), 3rd ascent of "The Dream is Free" 8c (21/8/2013, Val Noana, Goblin sector), FA of "La Suerte" 8c/+ (6/10/2013, Zuzza area ),"Mr Teroldego" 8c (5/6/2014, Narango), 2nd ascent of di "In Bilico" 8c (29/9/2015).
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