17 Aug Biographie 9a+ by Oddo

 
 
 
French climber from Nice Enzo Oddo (15 years) has done Biographie/Réalization 9a+ in Céüse.
End of july a hold was broken and it was uncertain if the route was still climbable. Enzo Oddo did before that about 15 tries, and was very close to the redpoint, then after the break of the hold found a new way to climb the first part. On august 15th he sent the all route. This is his first 9a+ and his 7th 9a.
 
Biographie  was bolted by Jean Christophe Lafaille on 1989. On1996 Arnaud Petit climbed it free at to the first chain and graded it 8c+, (confirmed by the first repeat of Sylvain Millet.)
The second part – 20 meters 8b+ , with a 7c boulder in the middle, was linked to the first by Chris Sharma after 3 years tries in 2001 july. Sharma called the whole route Réalisation..
 
Source : kairn
Ph Pierre Délas