28 Oct Bouldering Occitan
Thanks to the work of Paolo Bertolotto, a tireless explorer of the boulders near Cuneo, a wonderful site dedicated to bouldering was managed in the area of Saretto, at the sources of the Maira river.
Here the report by Diego Pirotti:
“Many years ago some boulders have been scaled by climbers of the Susa Valley, but from 2009 (thanks to the fact that from that I live and and work right there) have been cleaned up boulders already opened, and exploited all the other areas that showed a climbing potential.
At present the only area that is fully enhanced is the one of the sources of Maira (1 km from Saretto, 1650 m above sea level, it can easily be reached by car). The blocks (a dozen for about 60 moves) are inside the camping and most of them are between 6A and 7B, although there are some of grade 5. The topo can be downloaded at this link.
Among the boulders the most beautiful are Diedro Provenzale 6C sit, Yoga 6C sit, Paradiso 7C sit, Il Giardino delle vergini suicide 7B sit, Matte’s corner 7B sit, Una Placca e mezza 5C, Le Sacche 6B+ sit.
In late summer, along with Christian Core and Stella Marchisio, we started the cleaning of the areas Media Pausa (1700m), Grange Pausa (2050m), and Provenzale (1650m), after which were born some others projects and the first grade 8 of the Valley including:
Predator 7C+/8A sit 5 moves
Lycans 8A – traverse 25 moves
Elysium 8A – wonderful line of about 8 m high, in the sheer face of a giant boulder in the Rocca Provenzale. Christian Core has done the FA secured by a rope, as the the fall is very dangerous and at 7.5 m height there is a last aleatory movement. First hard 8A of Valle Maira.
The overall potential of the area Saretto is about 300 boulders (about 80 have already cleaned), although the 4 areas are far from each other. By next summer we’ll try to complete the work in the most interesting (Grange Pausa) and let out a little guide. The period for climbing is from when the snow melts to October, depending on the sector.
The rock changes from one area to another. At the sources of the river is dolomite, as well as in Media Pause, while in Grange Pausa is a much more compact dolomite mixed with limestone. In Provencale instead is quartzite, which is the same rock that we found climbing at Rocca Provenzale."
Detailed information can be found at the inn of Diego Pirotti (La Taverna di Diego), located at the intersection of the paths that come from Chialvetta from nearby France (Larche, Meyronnes, Saint Paul sur Ubaye) and Valle Varaita, or can send requests via mail to firstname.lastname@example.org.
video by Angelo Siri Bouldering Occitan