22 Aug Japanese Junior at Peak District
From Jack Geldard UKC editor: "15 year old Toru Nakajima has continued his gritstone rampage with ascents of Elm Street (E8) at Millstone and the project arete right of Simba’s Pride at Burbage which he has named Black Out – at a proposed a grade of E9 6c.
Black Out (E9 6c) takes a bold line left of Roof Route at Burbage South and features unprotected climbing on slopers and poor pockets, with a dynamic move to reach the top of the crag. Toru opted to solo the line instead of placing a side runner in Roof Route, which would only protect the easier lower-half. He climbed the route with no spotters above one small bouldering mat.
The line is only around 7 or 8 metres high and Toru described it as "a highball with a bad landing."
The youngster from Japan has made quite a run on the boulders as well as the routes, climbing several problems in very quick time up to around V11, including a flash ascent of the Stanage classic Brad Pit (V10) in mid-summer heat.
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