18 Apr Cholatse North wall: new Russian route
In March 2010, a strong team of Russian climbers composed by Valery Shamalo, Viktor Koval, Sasha Gukov, Galina Chibitok and Sergey Kondrashkin reached Khumbu area in Nepal, their focus being Cholatse, an extremely steep and beautiful 6, 440 m peak.
Cholatse was summited only in 1982 from SW ridge by Galen Rowell, Vern Clevenger, Bill O’Connor and John Roskelley.
On the North face the first route was established in 1984 by the Americans Todd Bibler, Catherine Freer, Renny Jackson and Sandy Stewart . To be mentioned the extraordinary solo by Ueli Steck on the French route in 2005.
The Russian team headed a rocky pillar on the right part of the North face (never scaled before), willing to follow a direct route on the steep compact 1, 400 m.wall.
They climbed half route, but becoming Galina Chibitok seriously ill, the all team had to retreat to the BC.
Chibitok and Kondrashkin went back home, and the others reached the summit on March 20.
The established route slashes up steep rock and mixed terrain finally joining the 1995 French route on a snow and ice ramp that diagonals across the wall to reach the west ridge, and it is likely the most difficult of Cholatse.
Sources Climbing e Mountain.ru