16 Feb Civetta: 1st solo winter ascent by Valseschini
Who asked for Fabio Valseschini at his workplace between 6th and 14th March, has not found him: colleagues said he was climbing in the Dolomites, nothing more… As usual Fabio did not give many tips on the projects in his mind , although some well-informed knew, but kept the order of silence.
Now that Fabio is back, the achievement of his " holiday week “ is there in everyone’s eyes … the first winter and solo repeat of the “Via dei 5 di Valmadrera”
The route, 1350m VI A3 + is developed on the northwest wall of Civetta , and was opened from 16th to 22th March 1972 by the brothers Gianni and Antonio Rusconi, Giorgio Tessari, Giambattista Crimella and Giambattista Villa.
It ‘s a tricky and tough route repeated for the first time in 1983 by two of the openers, Gianni Rusconi and Gianbattista Crimella with Paolo Crippa and Mosè Butti. In summer 2003 it was the turn of another specialist of the solo winter ascents Claudio Moretti (Carlesso on Torre Trieste and Livanos ) together with Rosy Buffa. The third repeat is also the first solo by Nico Rizzotto (summer 2004).
Fabio Valseschini established seven bivy plus one during the descent.
Valseschini is a multi-active mountaineer: he managed also the first solo winter of “Via del Fratello” . V+, A1 (750 m ) and of “Via degli inglesi” (R.J. Isherwood, J.M. Kosterlitz. V+, A1 and A2 600 m ), both on the North wall of Piz Badile, in Central Alps.
Source: Sport Specialist