Daniel Woods Mourning Glory 5.14c/d FA - Up-Climbing

Daniel Woods Mourning Glory 5.14c/d FA

 
Daniel Woods has made  the first ascent of Mourning Glory (5.14c/d) 8c+/9a,  a bolted project in Clear Creek Canyon, outside of Golden, Colorado.
 
 On his Facebook page, Daniel Woods about  Mourning Glory:
 
Recently, I have been switching things up and sport climbing. I have bouldered for so many years, and just needed something different. My friend and old coach Jim Redo showed me an open project in Clear Creek Canyon, CO. The line was bolted and freed as an aid route by Darren Mabe. The first pitch is a 5 bolt 12b leading to a no hands ledge at the base of the roof. At this point you are 250 above the river completely exposed.
 
You are able to look out at the 6 draws dangling from the 50 degree overhanging ceiling, compose your nerves, and set off on the first boulder problem. This problem is 7 moves long using poor incut crimps for your right hand and textured slopers with your left. The finishing move of the problem consists of taking a right hand upside down gaston and jumping left hand to a sideways jug. Once you arrive here, you gather yourself and execute the 2 move v7 crux.
 
At the end of this crux you have a full pad incut rail in which you can rest a bit before tackling the 4 move v9/10 crux at the end. The last move of this problem involves a dyno to the lip of the roof. Here sits a jug hueco in which you can clip the anchor. I was able to make the FA on my fourth try over 2 days. The climbing really suited my style.
 
This roof is the hardest sport climb I have established and has given me so much motivation to bolt new lines. I love the process of figuring out moves and executing them. I named the climb Mourning Glory and it felt to be 14c/d. Thanks to Darren for creating this route and opening it up to the public.
 Blog – Daniel Woods

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