16 Jun Deep Water Solo in Syracuse
When it was started to speak about Deep Water Solo in Syracuse, it was impossible to imagine that after some years cameras arrived to realize a video whit top climbers on the cliffs of this city. But this has happened and can be auspicious for the future to make of Sicilian town a new important location. After San Vito Climbing Festival, we return to speak about Sicily and its potentiality.
DEEP WATER SOLO IN SYRACUSE
by Roberto Zampino
The Sicilian warm, the terrible summer heat that reaches desert level is often a very valid reason not to approach the rock. Some shadow cliffs apart (new walls are just bolted) the rest of rock in Sicily, during summer months, is just good to cook pizza.
Ten years ago, the Gruppo Roccia Siracusa, animated to climb also in this conditions, wanted to try Deep Water Solo. They didn’t know that this discipline was expanding also in UK in the same time thanks to climbers like Mike Robertson and then Neil Gresham and so the Italian guys started to climb above the sea. Simon Alberto Piera and Riccardo Lentini were the first and then the DWS began structuring. Syracuse cliffs are solid and characterized by a suitable conformation, in addition to an easy access, so they are reached without boat.
There characteristics induced Neil Gresham, that he’s realizing an Epic TV movie on DWS, to visit this area. This will be divided into six episodes that examine the DWS both mental and sporting aspect. The other locations are Mallorca, Vietnam, UK and also Syracuse has the honor to be considered. Polished Project troupe, whit Roberto Zampino photographer and some local climbers, discovered a unique and fascinating part of Sicily.
The interesting cliff is the part that hugs the coast, accessible by bike path that connected the lower part of the city whit the upper. This is 6 kilometers long and is characterized by caves and coves visited by tourists using boats. Now, there are 3 main locations for DWS. The first one is attainable by Bar Tunisi traverse, a 15/17 meters high cave whit very deep water above. Here a spectacular 7c+/8a FA was realized on a knobs and tufas roof.
The second spot is an Arch at the end of bike path, visible by sea but difficult to find if isn’t known. Using a jeep, it’s possible to park nearby and the routes that go up following the arch edges are very beautiful and psychological. They are safe except a few whit a no good start or whit emergent evident rocks.
The third spot, called Cannone, is located some tens of meters north from the Arch and is the unique cliff whit sun in the afternoon. Here there are funny routes from 6a to 8a. The place in general was very appreciated by troupe and climbers.
The protagonists of the movie are Neil Gresham, Mike Robertson and Christian Leube, an Austrian climber that live in Syracuse now and it will be ready after December.
In general is possible to find very different grade routes. A lot of warming up 6b/c or very beautiful 7b+, 7c and 7c+, whit 15 meters high roofs. This is only the beginning and a lot of other places are to be discovered and it’s possible to develop both DWS and sport climbing, in fact also great Daniel Jung climbed some bolted routes during shooting. All the sectors are 20/25 minutes long by parking and the quality of rock is always high. It’s possible to use the bike path and to reach the spots by foot.
The development of this kind of climbing can be an help for tourism and a form of protection of the marine and coastal environments cause the Administration could exploit this resource to preserve and clean up the coast. The fear of local climber is that Syracuse can become a new Kalymnos but here nobody want to queue for climbing.
DWS is a very particular and dangerous sport. It’s fundamental don’t go alone but whit competent person, able to bring help both on land and at sea.
