Edurne Pasaban denied by Sherpas - Up-Climbing

Edurne Pasaban denied by Sherpas


For the record, the latest episodes of a story that does little honor to Himalayan climbing. The South Korean Oh Eun Sun April 27 climbed Annapurna, thus gaining the title of first woman in history to complete 14x8000ers 
 
The Spanish Edurne Pasaban – her direct and defeated pursuer in the record, currently at the base camp of Shisha Pangma, her last 8000 left – raised doubts about Oh Eun Sun summit of  Kangchenjunga, on the basis of a photo showing a rocky peak instead of snow and "confidences" received by the Sherpas in which Oh stopped at a lowest point of the mountain.
 
Miss Elizabeth Hawley, an American lady considered an authority on the Himalayan achievements (I’m a "files recorder" ,  not a judge – has  anyway declared miss Hawley) met both mountaineers: the ascent of Oh was "accredited" even with the word "disputed" , because of suspicions raised by Pasaban.
 
Pasaban finally revealed the names of the Sherpas, but two of them have denied her version of events, saying clearly  that Miss Oh actually climbed to the top of the contested mountain.
 
Premise that "as Buddhists, we can not lie," Dawa Ongju said in particular that the summit was reached by them and by Oh in  bad weather at 17:45 and had never discuss about this ascent with  Pasaban. 
 
Better than any comment, the words of Nives Meroi in the days following the completion of the 14 8000ers by Oh Eun Sun: "What Edurne Pasaban and Oh Eun Sun do is assisted climbing. Both are accompanied by many Sherpas who do the "dirty job"  preparing  the way and the camps of high altitude. They  just have to stick to a fixed rope and climb, step by step. To move from one camp to another instead use helicopters.  And this different from the way I go to the mountains, making a hiking approach and equipping the way to the top in a self-sufficient. "

Nives Meroi climbed with her husband Romano Benet 11 8000ers: they never used supplementary oxygen or high altitude porters, carrying up and down the mountain all their equipment. About use of oxygen, Nives has no doubt: "It makes  easier to climb or descent, even lowering the altitude of 2/3,000 meters.You re up to 8000 but it is as if you were at 5,000 meters. Both Miss Oh and Pasaban have used it on several occasions. " "There is a big difference between our and their style – said Meroi – which can not be compared. Fortunately everyone can climb a mountain as he wishes, but then we must have the courage to admit that not all ways are equal ".
 
Last May Nives Meroi had given up to the summit of Kangchenjunga to stay close to Romano Benet, in poor health: the occasion, at an altitude of 7500 meters, had loaded on her back most of the weight of  bags and helped  Roman in descent.
 
Source: Desnivel Kairn Regione VDA 

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