Ensueño - Up-Climbing

Ensueño

 
Doerte Pietron, 30, professional mountain guide, is one of the most active and talented alpinists in Patagonia,  with a list of prestigious climbs on her resume. In December 2008, she managed a repetition of  Via dei Ragni on the west face of Cerro Torre (1 ^ German and first female ascent).
 
Also in 2008,   the ascents of the splendid cracks system of  Mate, Porro y todo lo Demas 900m, 6c+. Only a year before,  she has undergone an operation for lung edema. In her booklet it is also included the route Casarotto – variant Kearny-Knight – on Fitz Roy north pillar,  900m, 7a in December 2009.
 
In February 2010 with the Argentine Milena Gomez, Doerte repeats the very long (1700m, 6c/A1) Afanasieff route on the north face of Fitz Roy. Also in February  the  Whilans, 600m, 5 +, 60 ° at the Aguja Poincenot and Aguja Guillaumet by Amy Couloir 350m 5, 55 º.
 
Finally in November of 2010 in just five days, she climbs Supercanaleta on the Fitz Roy and the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, a great performance also completed by the Italians Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder. In February, comes the perhaps most important success with a fast free repetition of the route Ensueño on Fitz Roy.
 
Here the report that Doerte sent us:
 
Ensueño
 
In November I had a really good start into the 2010/11 Patagonian season when I could climb Fitz Roy via the Supercanaleta and Cerro Torre via the Compressor route both in a week. After that I thought I was really well prepared for the next good weather window to come, but in the next three months only two one-day windows showed up of which the first I lost to a forgotten harness and the next I used for a short climb on Aguja Innominata.
 
Finally in mid February a high pressure system approached Chalten and we set our eyes on Ensueno, a long (1600m) rock climb on Fitz Roy’s west face. In 1995 Mauro Girardi, Lorenzo Nadali and Andrea Sarchi (Italy) did the first ascent of the route which starts 70m above Supercanaleta’s bergschrund, then climbs discontinuous cracks and slabs to the right of it and finally joins Supercanaleta again for its last seven pitches. It was repeated once to the summit, by a Slovene team led by Tomaz Jakofcic.
 
My partner and I started early from Chalten, walking to the base of the route with german Hans Martin Goetz and Italian Massimo Falleti, who had their eyes set on the Afanassieff route. We reached the base early, around midday, so instead of bivying there we decided to start climbing. The good bivy ledges in Ensueño are fairly spaced out, the first at pitch 7, the second at pitch 18. Since we passed the first one quite early, around 4PM, we decided to race the light to the second bivy ledge, arriving to it right before nightfall. Climbing in the warmth of the afternoon sun was very enjoyable. The climbing is never harder than 6c, but the first ascentionists did not place any bolts between belays and the climbing is sometimes exposed in rock that is often crumbly, so one must take great care.
 
The hard thing in a route like Ensueño is how to carry enough equipment to climb Fitz Roy (and descend the other side – boots, crampons, one icetool) and bivy comfortably (sleeping bag, stove and food) but still be light enough so that both leader and follower can free-climb. We had close to 15 kg between both of us, 6 or 7 on the leader’s back pack, the rest on the follower. It is not so easy to climb 6c with a backpack that heavy, but luckily in this route the climbing is mostly face (slabs), so all one needs to do is stand well on one’s feet.
 
Upon joining the Supercanaleta by midday on day two we got hit by strong winds, but we were so high up that we decided to "fail upwards", because climbing up and over the summit was the easiest way down. The last couple of hours to the top the ropes flew horizontally and it was hard to move fast. By 5PM we were in the summit for what, in spite of the wind, was my most comfortable and enjoyable ascent of Fitz Roy. This was mostly because of the quality and character of the route and the fact that we both free climbed without using jumars.
 
The descent down the Franco-Argentine route took only a few hours, and by dark we were in Paso Superior, reaching Chalten easily the next morning, less than 48 since we left. Much has changed in this area since Sarchi and partners climbed Ensueño. Thanks to the weather forecasting and the communal knowledge of these mountains that we have it is now possible to climb a route of this magnitude rather casually. Fitz Roy under these circumstances feels like a bigger version of Petits Jorasses. Something important has been lost, but I am not about to regret the chance to climb such an imposing peak in such an elegant manner.
 
For more info about the route see www.pataclimb.com
Doerte Pietron resume:
Peru 
Nevado Pisco 5752m, Suedwest Grat, AD-. August 2001.
Nevado Chopicalqui 6356m, Suedwest Grat, AD-. August 2001.
Nevado Tocllaraju 6032m, Nordwest Grat, AD. August 2001. 

Himalaya 
Pakistan Charakusa Valley, Nayser Brakk 5200m 1000m, 60°, 6a. Juli 2005
Pakistan Charakusa Valley, K7 6900m, Versuch Erstbegehung 13 Seillaengen, 5.11/A3. Juli 2005.
Indien Myar Valley, Erstbesteigung P.5850m 600m, 70°, IV. Mai 2008
Indien Myar Valley, Red Pillar, Erstbegehung ‘Weg durch den Adler’ 250m, 7a. Mai 2008. 

Afrika 
Mt. Kenya 5200m, Suedost Grat 700m, 5.9 (Fuehrung mit einem Gast). Januar 2007.
Mt. Meru Normalweg, Januar 2007.
Mt. Kilimanjaro, Januar 2007. 

USA,Yosemite 2004 
El Capitan ‘The Nose’ (1000m, 6c A1)
Half Dome ‘Regular Northwest Face’ (600m, 6c A0)
Washington Column ‘Astroman’ (400m, 7a)
Leaning Tower ‘Wet Denin Daydream’ (500m, 6a, A3)  

Alpen 
Aig. du Midi Nordwand ‘Eperon Frendo’ 1200m, III, 4. 2002
Eiger Nordostwand ‘Lauperroute’ 1800m, IV, 70°. 2002
Les Droites Nordwand ‘Ginat’ 1000m, WI5, Mixed. Maerz 2003
Pointe du Domino ‘Petit Viking’, 500m, III, 4. 2003
Mt. Blanc du Tacul ‘Modica-Noury’, 500m, WI5+. 2004
Pré de Bar ‘Madness tres Mince’ 500m, WI5. 2004
Les Droites Nordwand ‘Eperon Tournier’ mit Direkteinstieg 1300m, 6a, WI4. 2005
Mt. Blanc du Tacul ‘Supercouloir’ 800m, WI5+, 5c. 2005
Aig. Pelerins ‘Rebuffat-Terray’ 500m, WI5+. 2007  

Dolomiten 
Cima Grande ‘Hasse-Brandler’ 7a+. Frei. 2008
Cima Grande ‘Iso 2000’ 500m, 7a+. Onsight 2009
Cima Ovest ‘Cassin-Ratti’ 7a. 2004
Cima Ovest ‘Schweizerfuehre’ 500m, 7b. Onsight. 2009
Cima Piccola ‘Keine Perlen vor die Säue’ 7b+. Onsight. 2009
Cima Piccola ‘Oetzi trifft Yeti’, 260m, 7a+. Onsight. 2009
Pordoi ‘4 Giornati una estate’ 7a. onsight. 2008
Tofana di Rozes ‘Da pozzo vecchio pazzo’ 7b+. Onsight. 2008
Tofana di Rozes ‘Aspettando la Vetta’ 250m, 7a. Onsight. 2009
Tofana di Rozes ‘Danza del Tapiro’ 250m, 7a+. Onsight. 2009
Tofana di Rozes ‘Sognando Aurora’ 600m, 7b+. Rotpunkt. 2009
Tofana di Rozes ‘Paolo VI’ 500m, 7c. Frei. 2009
Marmolada ‘Tempi Moderni’ 7a. Onsight. 2008
Brunecker Turm ‘Oro e Carbone’ 400m, 7a. Onsight. 2008
Lastoni di Formin ‘Spiderman’ 300m, 7b+. Rotpunkt. 2009
Cima Skotoni ‘Skotonata galactica’ 600m, 7c+. Rotpunkt. 2009  

Sportklettern
Rotpunkt:
8a ‘Mescalito’, Karlstein (Bavaria)   
7c+ ‘High Gravity Day’, Frankenjura   
7c+ ‘MTM’ Calamar, Patagonien   
7c ‘Pfaelzer Sanduhrendrama’, Honigfels, Suedpfalz.   
7c ‘Kathedrale’, Laemmerfelsen, Suedpfalz.

Onsight:
7b+ ‘Pince sans Rire’, Rodellar, Spain   
7b+ ‘Bondage’, Frankenjura   
Zahlreiche weitere 7b+’s und 7b’s onsight

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