07 Mar Fabian Buhl climbed Prinzip Hoffnung

Known above all like boulderman, Fabi Buhl is also a great climber whit rope and infact, after another fracture of his ankle, he returned to try the famous Prinzip Hoffnung, 8b+ E9-E10 opened by the king Beat Kammerlander. This is the Fabi’s story about this interesting ascent.
PRINZIP HOFFNUNG
by Fabian Buh
After my second ankle fracture within 6 months, I was walking again, but jumping down was forbidden to me another 3 weeks. So I searched for some alternative experience where I do not have to jump down, therefore started trying the trad climb from Beat Kammerlander Prinzip Hoffnung 8b+ E9-10. Due to the reason that I haven´t climbed on a rope since 2 years or so, I was quite astonished when I could sent it on toprope on my second day. From this point on I wanted to try it on lead, but I have never climbed with gear, so I didn´t know how my mental strength is. But luckily I fell only once in my first try, after this I had more trust into the micro protection and could climb more relaxed, for me this was the key to the redpoint. I was really happy, that I could climb my first 8b+ route, for me it is even nicer that it is also a trad climb and that it has such a great history. I want to thank Jacopo Larcher and Chri Bindhammer for the support and a special thanks go out to Beat for this amazing climb!


Fabian Buhl thanks LaSportiva and Climb On and also Stefan Schlumpf for the photos.