23 Oct Interview: Fabian Buhl
Fabian Buhl, young German climber, changed his interest this year to mutipicth and the first one was the famous Kammerlander’s musterpiece Silbergeier in Ratikon. After some 8b+ and harder bouderls and a psyco-route like Prizip Hoffnung, Fabi wanted to try this new experiance so we were curious to know better this young talent.
We read on your blog that Silbergeier ascent was a step to become a "alloround climber", tell me something about this your interest…
I grew up in the mountains and I really like being out in the mountains. After the second ankle fracture I was not allowed to jump down, therefore I searched for an alternative challenge. First I tried trad climbing and then this summer I wanted to do a multipitch. It was really nice to mix the different climbing styles, so it never gets boring. I am real happy that everything worked out so nice, in January I would never have believed it;-)
Did you started whit boulder, is it right? And then you focused your attentions to sport climbing, trad climbing and now multipitch…what made you change your interest?
I actually started with sport climbing, but after visiting Ticino, I switched to bouldering and basically travelled on all free weekends to Swiss for bouldering. Then I only bouldered. This winter I started with Prinzip Hoffnung trad climbing, actually this was my hardest route at that time and my first longer route since 3 years again. In the beginning I did not know, that my head can handle bad protection and spaced bolts, somehow I could handle it and even enjoyed the process behind it. This was also the time when I started to think about multipitches.
Who inspired you in these different periods?
Passionated people that try to realize their ideas always inspired me, for example Martin Scheel or Tommy Caldwell in multipitch climbing. In bouldering Fred was and still is a source of inspiration, not only climbing wise, but also his way of life is very inspiring.
But where and when was born your passion for climbing?
After qiuting alpine skiing in 2006, a friend of mine took me out for a day climbing, since then I am fascinated by our sport. I am really passionated about climbing in nature and travelling, at the moment I just try to improve and enjoy it as much as possible.
You are very young: what do you see in your future?
In future I want to improve my physical abilities in bouldering, I just love to work on moves and boulders at my limit. I think more strength also helps me to get a better allround climber. This year I had so much fun with switching the different styles of climbing that I want to keep on doing that in future during the different seasons of the year. I also got really interested in opening multipitches ground up and only placing bolts, where they are really needed, like Martin Scheel or Beat Kammerlander did it.
Your sponsor now? Is it possible for you dedicate all your time to climbing?
I am sponsored by La Sportiva, Petzl, Climb On and DAV Kempten. I am really happy about their support and it feels great to be part of such nice companies. I try to climb as much as possible,but beside studying, I also have to work a bit, in order to finance my climbing trips.
Winter is coming soon: what your next terget and program?
I have another multi pitch project that I am working on and hope to get my chance before winter. Beside that I try to train while studying and get in shape for bouldering and the nice conditions.
Interview by Stefano Michelin