28 Feb Fitz Roy – Washington Route
We already gave the new about the route opened by the Americans Michael Schaefer and Kate Rutherford on 9th February on the south face of Fitz Roy. Here more details
The two established a bivy at the base of the Californian Route (700m 6c -Yvon Chouinard, Richard Dorworth, Lito Tejada Flores, Doug Tompkins and Chris Jones, 1968) and the following day attacked a system of cracks and corners few hundred meters east of the Californian Route
The progression had a slow start due to the presence of ice, and then speed up in the beautiful cracks with magnificent rock with affordable difficulties (5.10 max and A1 for 12 pitches).
So Schaefer and Rutherford left the steepest and compact part, went right and – simul climbing on easier terrain – reached the summit at about 11 pm. Another bivy (no sleeping bag) and on the first lights of the day rappelled down by the routeFranco / Argentina. The route they opened was baptized Washington route.
Source and photos: Michael Schaefer Kate Rutherford
Jardine Japoneses Aguja Mermoz by Michael Schaefer