05 Jun Florian Murnig FA of Mister OneTwo 8b+
Austrian climber Florian Murnig has done the FA of Mister OneTwo, in Zillertal – Austria and suggests grade 8b+. Here his report:
"Will I see you tomorrow and will I see you again, because it has been such a long time since I have seen you my friend, will I still be to weak and will I still be defended, will we see us again…some lyrics from a song I heard some time after I climbed a route what matches the time I spend for cleaning, bolting, figuring out the moves, trying and finally sending it.
I can remember the moment where my friends from Zillertal took me to a secret bouldering place to show me their brand new problems. The boulder problems were incredible for me but the most amazing thing was this huge block in the middle of the riverbed surrounded by melting water from the top of the mountains.
I saw the most amazing line in beautiful orange granite just in the middle of this slightly overhanging wall and felt in love with it. It became a special friend for me and it should take a long time to finish it.
The Zillertal is like five hours away from my home and I spend time with my new friend when ever I had time to meet him.
First I thought it would be pretty easy, a couple of 7b moves with a nice topout and walk down.
These easy moves went into technical and powerful moves just after cleaning the route from loose rock and finally I had to figure out a dynamic move from a slopy sidepull into a razorblade pocket without some good footholds. My tries ended up with this single move frequently.
It seamed to get harder and harder because on every try some small footholds splattered off.
I was surprised when I tried to skip bad footholds and finally could do the move without all that technique stuff. Sometimes it’s the easy way. Moving on means letting go!"
Ph. Claudia Ziegler
Florian Murnig Merikah 8c/c+