28 Sep Gérôme Pouvreau Aubade Directe 9a/a+ FA

 
Saturday, Sept 25th , French climber  Gérôme Pouvreau has done  the first ascent of Aubade directe, 9a/a+ at  Sainte Victoire, near Aix en Provence.
 
The route was bolted by Christophe Da Conceicao and has two possible exits: the classic version turns on the right, has an exit "easier" and is rated 8c+. It remained to free the direct  version, 12 meters more  very bouldery and technical.

After two or three falls just after the last crux (a long move to gain  a small crack), Saturday Gérôme carried out the FA,  also taking advantage of good weather conditions, 15 ° and mistral at 70 km / h .

He suggests the grade  9a/a+.
 
Gérôme’s girlfriend, Florence Pinet,  in meanwhile has done  a couple of 8b: "Twin pinch" in Sainte-Victoire and the legendary "Les mains sales" on the west wall of Buoux.
 
read more on Kairn (french)