06 Apr Gabri Moroni
Why did you choose this route?
This summer I spent a lot of time in Ceuse and to rest from the path occasionally I went to Entraygues which is about an hour far from Ceuse. Since I had there already climbed the other 9a’s route, I had to try this one
At the start there is a hard block, after it’s less difficult?
Absolutely not. The route is practically a very hard boulder of 8a or 8a+ with a dyno and a swing really extreme. I don’t think that lot of people can do it, unless you’re good at that kind of climb
After the boulder there is a good rest and then from here last moves are very intense – about 8b – where it is very easy to fall because each step is uncertain.
It took more effort than Sankukai?
It ‘a different route than Sankukai. Condé de Choc has much more extreme moves and the problem for me was to hold the long swing. Sankukai is more climbable and continue. Single moves are’nt very hard, but it’s hard to link everything together.
Your route in Gressoney – Elements of disorder – has committed less physical level?
Definitely yes, about the physical level, but he need more or less the same time … maybe even a little more. EdD is a fingers route, more technical and I do’nt think it ‘s much easier than Condé de choc.
You prefer the extreme routes on granite – gneiss or those on limestone?
I just love everything but not chipped.
I know you really like Ceuse, where you have recently sent L’ Arcademicien 8c, you have not tried Biographie?
Biographie I think it is too hard for me for the moment. It ‘a route on which you must have a high level of resistance, but at the same time a very high power. Maybe next year I’ll start a bit on this route.
You are also very strong on boulder, you need on extreme routes where there are more selective boulder moves?
Of course. Having a high level of force is always important to the extreme routes.
Lot of and all around the world.
Gabri Moroni has done the second ascent of "Condé