15 Apr Gabriele Moroni boulder and trad
Italian climber Gabriele Moroni flashed Confession of a Crap Artist , in Chironico (CH).
According to Gabriele, "The grade was originally 8a but I’m sure very good methods have been found and the grade now is in the 7c range".
Later Gabriele climbed it again from the low start. "Low start adds 5more not so easy moves to the stand start and make the grade come up to 8a more or less!… I remember I read somewhere that Jorg Verhoeven opened this problem some years ago and called it Wrap Artist"
After an attempt to Boogalagga 8B (Gabriele has done it last year) interrupted in reason of fingers problems, he sent Miss Schweiz 8A and flashed The Alphane Moon 8A.
Few days later Gabriele was for trad climbing in the crag of Cadarese (Antigorio Valley, near Domodossola- North west of Italy), where he managed the ascent of Grazie Ricky 8a.
"I have always tried to be a complete climber so last year I started Trad Climbing too and I really fell in love with it! I feel that I’m improving on placing the gear everytime" writes Gabriele on his blog.
Here his report of the route "Cadarese is the perfect place to learn that… It’s a very nice granite crag full of cracks,corners,dihedrals,aretes etc!
Unfortunately the three main sectors are all bolted even if the bolts are not needed…
Last tuesday I tried one very nice 8a with the intent to do it only with natural protections. The route is about 25meters long and has some very nice cracks at the beginning that are easy to protect. After the first not so hard but technical 10meters you have the first physical and mental crux. A 4meters runout on a #2cam while you climb this precarious arete on slopers. After the first crux you get to a dihedral and you can have a good rest and place two protections(#0 and #1)before the last intense 10meters that consist in some physical moves on a slopey crack and a difficult #3 to place in the middle of the sequence… After you place the last cam you have the resistence crux with big lockoffs between slopey edges and a 5meters runout to add some spice at the end…
Saturday I was syked for a headpoint try and after a check out to remember the moves and the protections I went for the headpoint go! I climbed relaxed all the way to the top for my first trad 8a" .
Source. Gabriele Moroni