09 Jan Winter plans for 8000er’s
Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Canadian Cory Richards (mountaineer and photographer of the expedition) set off on December 27 to Pakistan, where they planned the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II, 8.035 m.
On January 3, reached the Kosar Gang base camp at 3.750 meters and – as part of their acclimatization program – have already spent a night at Camp 1 at 4,00 meters. That of Moro and Urubko will be an expedition in light, alpine style, without high altitude porters.
An entirely different philosophy the one of he Polish team to Broad Peak, with twenty climbers, two hundred porters and two high altitude Sherpas.
The Polish foundation Kukuczka has in fact prepared a five-year project called the Polish winter mountaineering in the Himalaya 2010-2015. The first goal was K2 and Broad Peak, but the Pole now have focused on the latter mountain.
The team leader is Artur Hazjer (one of the mates of Kukuzcka, the second climber to complete the series of 14x 8000), among the participants Robert Szymczak, Rafal Fronia, Jaroslaw Gawrysiak, Arkadiusz Grzadziel, Marcin Kaczkan, Piotr Snopczynski, Robert Kazmierski, Krzysztof Starek, Robert Szymczak, Jerzy Natkanski and two high altitude porters. After consulting meteorologist Karl Gabl, the Pole have decided not to attempt the summit until March.
Meanwhile, the Russian Sergey Tsygankov Nikolayevich had to give up its plans for the solo winter ascent of Nanga Parbat, 8.125 m, due to lung problems that have struck him during the ascent to camp 1 on the Diamir side of the mountain.
Source :Simone Moro; Desnivel

