03 Jun Girls on fire: Ghisolfi and Fakhritdinova on top!
Claudia Ghisolfi and Dinara Fakhritdinova on their 8c+/9a projects.
Let’s start with Claudia Ghisolfi, the most recent news, who has climbed L’extremacura plus, the super hard version of La cura, must do line in Gravere. Thanks to some good olds attempts during the last year, she has climbed it really quickly, almost like Giorgio Tomatis, the young climber who has sent it few days before Claudia.FOr her it is the second 8c+, after the storical ascent of Noia in Andonno.
“In september 2019 i did my first 8c “L’extrema cura” then i decided to try the hard version, that becomes 8c+ but i stoppet the project because of the bad conditions in Gravere. Then, during last year, I haven’t been able to try it again due to covid. This year I have been able to climb l’extrema cura plus 8c+. Obviously I already knew the lower part and with few attempts I caould climb the whole line. I’m really happy to have confirmed the 8c+ and I have to admit that on Noia I struggled a lot more!”
Talking about Russia, we are now in Crimea, where we find a real former climber: Dinara Fakhritdinova. Well known in the lead world cup, european champion, now she is the first Russian woman on the 9a grade, climbing Max Factor.
“The first time I tried this route was half a year ago, I did 3 attempts. This was my first 9a I was projecting. I looked up to other girls who have sent this grade, and I dreamed of climbing it too. I am 151 cm tall, for me, there may be some height problems on some routes. There are some parts that require a long reach. But with this line – everything suited me perfectly. The main problem with climbing this line was that I haven’t got enough of self belief, but people around, my friends, they supported me a lot and belived in me. The hardest crux for me was in the upper section – I’ve alredy fallen there 3 times at the last hard move. It is frustrating. On a day of send, I decided to warm up on a 6b and go try the project without expectations. Everything went smooth. I was calm. I sent it, my first 9a, Max Factor!”
From Claudi Ghisolfi and Dianara Fakhritdinova
AP
